Recent content by folgers

I don't like the idea of tying into the old slab. Concrete will shrink as it cures. You would be anchoring one part of your new slab while other parts of it try to pull and move away. You'd be better off to fully float the new slab with at least a couple of inches of sand or fine gravel covering...

Easy way to calculate a slab: (width in feet) X (length in feet) X (thickness in inches) ÷ 324 = cubic yards

You really need to have someone inspect your deck and see what the extent of the damage is. First and foremost it's a safety issue. Secondly you need to stop the corrosion of the re-bar and fix any damage right the first time. Look at it as a opportunity to get it fixed now before it gets worse...

One of the problems with pouring concrete too wet is that the portland, sand, and aggregate won't stay in suspension. They segregate out. When I looked at the photos you posted I didn't see any large aggregate under what had peeled off the top. What you have is a lot of the portland coming to...

I agree. The customer is paying for a sound concrete floor. If you look at his pictures, DTL504 has large areas that aren't sound. He'd be well within his rights to ask it be re-poured. There are going to be other areas of his floor that are weak even if the surface hasn't separated yet. If you...

Yeah I'd call it a lip. The 6 or 8 inches of the floor that sets outside the overhead door. We always slope it away from the door as a matter of practice to keep wind driven rain from puddling against the door's bottom. What we do is set the form board across the outside of the doorway at the...

That wouldn't be a bad idea. I see your driveway has settled and cracked if/ when you remove it you'll find that the cracks in the garage floor run all the way through the slab and some pretty good sized chunks will fall loose. It would be easiest to do in two pours. You'd have to saw and...

It looks like the root problem is the lack of a expansion joint between the driveway and the garage floor. The long cracks that run parallel to the door are caused by the driveway moving up and down while being in contact with the garage floor. Those small cracks let water and salt from your car...

If you still have the part that broke off... I think I'd try to put it back in the chuck same way it came out, then clamp it in a vice and run the impact backwards a few licks while pressing hard on it. Maybe that would unwedge the shank left in the chuck. Good luck

What your contractor should have done was put a 3/4 inch slope on the 8" of concrete that extends beyond the overhead door. Without that slope wind driven rain will puddle up against the door and run inside. I think you need to take off more than 1/8" or a 1/4" inch to keep the rain out. If...

Is your ridge vent installed right? There are suppose to be gaskets between it and the metal roof that should stop rain from blowing under it. I wouldn't worry about a little condensation dripping, it will stop after the ceiling is up and warm moist air can't reach the cold metal.

You said you were there for the pour...did they have grade stakes (rebar) set out 3 feet from the walls to show top of concrete and the start of the slope. I'm just wondering what if anything they set up to insure they got the placement right. The slope layout wasn't too complicated we do pours...

Loft 1. I'm not a framer but I think I'd cut the wallboard off side b and use lags into the studs. I don't think it would be necessary to attach side a to the wall.

You don't have to. All the heat you need is a few feet below the surface of your yard. Install a geothermal furnace and pump it into your house.

Kernel and Colonel looking at those two words I just can't bring myself to get upset by spelling errors. I do however appreciate skilled writers, more so for those that can write humor.