Recent content by Frost

Use duct seal. It's cheap, wont damage the wire, and can be easily removed later if you need to replace the wire.

For cheap, but strong open/cantilevered shelving, this is a really good design. Once you make a jig to cut the angles for the brackets, they are very quick to put together and as shown in one of the pictures they are strong enough to climb up. https://woodgears.ca/shelves/

If there is not a large amount of water coming through the wall in weather this warm, why rule out spray foam? Any type of insulation will have the same problem with being unable to dry unless you address the water on the outside (sealing, dimple board, etc). At least the spray foam will not...

I just installed a similar setup at my house this past fall. I have the Champion 3100W inverter generator, and installed a Generac manual transfer switch, which is a 30A/240V switch with an included inlet and a generator extension cord. In my case, the generator inlet is wired for both phases...

I glued rigid foam board to the block in my basement using PL 300 adhesive. It has to cure above 5C/40F, but it is fine to much higher and lower temperatures after it has cured. Its prime advantage for me over other foam-compatible adhesives (I put up a few boards with PL Premium, for example)...

No, that's 18" (12 inches below grade, 6 above). The 12 inches is the assumed depth of of the topsoil which needs to be removed to reach undisturbed soil. In the newer standard detail that I posted, there is no dimension given because the depth varies. A foot below grade would almost definitely...

For a small frame garage, you can use the standard details published by the municipalities. Here's the standard set of garage plans from Clarington's website (the first one I found on Google)...