Recent content by Gerry347

I used 2x4's and framed the wall all the way up and behind the top beam. I also put insulation all the way up the wall too. I then finished the walls with 1/2" OSB. I'd post pictures but I don't have a site to host them on.

I did that years ago with 5 or 6 pulleys, some 2x4's and some rope. It wan't the easiest thing to do but it worked. The link below is a lot cleaner looking, easier to use and it's not that expensive.... http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f51/camper-shell-lift-system-45315.html

You are spot on man.... We might not like or agree how some things are done but as long as what you agreed to pay for was completed as ordered then everything's good.

Any chance those are bad ones that aren't worth using?? When I was framing houses for my Dad (he was the builder) we always had a fairly large pile of garbage wood that we wouldn't use due to the condition of he wood but he sent it all back to the lumber yard for credit. The other cut wood...

I did what Hub did.... I framed in the walls between the poles with 2x4's and used R13 faced bats for insulation. Once that was done I covered the walls with OSB for durability. For the ceiling I'm using R30 faced bats and will add drywall to help deaden the sound of the space.

If I was limited to your options I'd most likely go with a 18x24 building so I have more room in front of a vehicle for a work bench and tool box. That keeps the longer sides for storage of uncut lumber or metal. I'd also suggest a single 9' or 10" wide door in the middle so you have a little...

10 foot walls are a little short for working on a car while it's on the lift. Do yourself a favor go at least 12' if you can.

With having bare steel walls I bet you're blow the heat right out of the building and it can't keep up. I would 100% insulate the walls before doing anything else. You won't be disappointed in the long run.

I think it can be done but I'm not sure how it's done. I say this because my Dad has his BBQ connected to his home propane line and he's got a quick disconnect fitting on the BBQ hose so he can put the BBQ away for the winter. I'm not sure if it has it's own pressure regulator under the deck...

Perfect :thumbup::thumbup:.... Thank You!!

Can I ask what LED lights you used?? I want to add a couple of those same light to my shop. Thanks!!!

Thanks for the explanation..... I'm planning to use 1/2" black pipe with a 4" drip leg at the heater and at the bottom of the wall before the pipe exits the building. I'm not sure I need both drip legs but I figured it can't hurt to have 2 of them. The total black pipe run is approx 9' (8"...

I guess I should have added that I don't plan on doing the gas connections myself because that something I don't feel comfortable doing (I'd rather not blow myself up). I'm just running the lines myself and will leave the connection part to the propane supplier. I asked more for clarification...

This might be a dumb question but I'll ask it anyway.... When connecting the gas line to the propane tank outside do you just hook it up directly to the tank or is there another regulator that goes between the tank and the line and before the heater's built in regulator?? I'm not ready for...

Many, many years ago my Dad used one those small square ceramic heaters to heat our shed. It worked great and kept everything from freezing.