Recent content by glazier1

Re: What's the verdict on Garage Windows? Clerestory (above eye level) operable windows with obscure glass and security screens might be a solution.

A 4” x 1/2” continuous aluminum threshold mounted to the slab and an adjustable brush type weather strip mounted on the bottom rail of the door might work. The go-to guys for this type of hardware are Pemko, Zero or CRL. They stock a lot of sizes and configurations. good luck!

Aluminum thermal-break fixed windows with low ”e” insulated glass might a good compromise. You could use matching bottom-hinged, project-in windows with pole hardware for ventilation when needed. These types of clerestory windows can be butted together. Doug

Dave, You're welcome. It makes me feel good to be able to share some of the things that I learned while in the glass business in the last 45 years. Doug

Good point made regarding silicone contamination. Dish washing liquid mixed with water is a safe substitute. Most glass installation tools are available from CRL (C R Laurence Co).

Dave, These items will help: silicone spray lubricant, nylon windshield stick and lock strip lacing tool 1. install the gasket in the cabinet opening and spray liberally with silicone lubricant 2. Starting at one corner carefully install glass in gasket with nylon stick 3. Spray lock strip...

The issue with the use of highly reflective glass might be the lack of privacy at night. Typically the exterior surface is reflective during sunlight hours, but the interior surface becomes reflective at night when the interior lights are on. The light ratio (interior vs exterior) will determine...

Dap 33 glazing compound instructions require the use of an exterior oil-based paint. As an alternate, use oil-based primer and acrylic-latex top coat. That being said, I wouldn't sweat it if only a couple of frames are involved.

I used the 36" ribbed vinyl floor runner for drawer liners and pads between chests. I also found a source for 24" rolls which fits my Lista chest without any waste.

You might try using a mill finish extrusion with 3/16" or 1/8" wall. Mill shallow grooves in it and have it anodized (clear/satin finish) This stuff is easy to work with.

I prefer aluminum frames with a thermal barrier and clear low E (2) insulated glass such as PPG Solarban 70. I think Argon gas can be a waste of money because of it's tendency to leak out of the units particularly if the units are made at a different altitude than where they will be installed...

Sorry, i wasn't clear on the glass weight. Insulated glass consisting of 2 lites of 1/8" glass = 3 lbs per sqft. 1/8" monolithic glass = 1.5 lbs per sqft.

1/8" glass weight = 3 lbs per sqft. (Not including glass stops)

I would install 1/8" clear or obscure polycarbonate to solve the security problem. It's more expensive than glass or acrylic, but is better in this application.

One way to check for leaks in the jamb/sill joints is to put duct tape over the weep slots and fill the sill with water and watch it for a few minutes. Most of the leaks that I have seen in horizontal sliding windows with nail fins are in the joints since there are no anchor penetrations through...