Recent content by gogolf0401

I ended up doing this. Insulation is just slightly exposed.

I've heard that you don't want to tie your apron to your indoor slab since during a freeze that can stress your slab and cause it to lift with the apron and/or crack. In warmer climates and different soils maybe less of an issue..

To help with the efficiency of my radiant heat I have installed 2" XPS foam around the perimeter of the slab (not poured yet) of my pole barn but I don't have it across the overhead door opening. I'm wondering if it is necessary and if so how have others done it? I assume you'll need to stop the...

Thanks. It's not cheap when you need to go down 5-6ft to get below the frost. I started this thinking I may not need to go down a full 2', now I think I better just do it. I'm certainly not going to below frost though.

Thanks for the reply. I'd agree if the building is not heated. If the building is heated, and even better, if the slab is heated, the frost will not be very deep next to the building, regardless how deep your perimeter foam is.. maybe I'm wrong, just my thinking.

If I plan to have in-floor heat in my concrete, how deep does the 2" perimeter down foam really need to be? If the building was not going to be heated, I see the importance to keep frost from raising the floor and cracking the concrete. If I have the perimeter foam down only 1ft is that enough...

Ya MN boy myself. I heard the corn makes it more humid down there. No thanks. Planning to install a heat pump for the house this spring. Will see how that helps the heating bill. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Hard to beat the price of NG. I wish I had it! That's what I would do.. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

You'll want at least 2.5" walls. If keeping it at 70 you'll want 3. Ceilings should probably be 4-5. Again it depends on how warm and efficient you need it. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

How warm do you intend to keep it heated? Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Forgot to mention, just do a hanging NG/LP heater sized for the space. They do a good job in my experience. Did my previous 40x88x14 that way and it hardly ran. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Greatest heat loss is through the roof and windows. Depends on what you want. Nothing wrong with vaulting and foaming that with fiberglass walls. From Detroit Lakes area myself. I foamed my walls and did cellulose in the ceiling in my previous shop. Was easy to heat... Love foam. Built a new...

Just following up here... I added a second regulator after I borrowed a manometer and realized the inlet pressure was 56 in/H2O.. supposed to be 11-14 in. After adding the regulator I was able to adjust both the regulator and gas manifold to get the appropriate pressures and the heater works...

Ok thanks. I'll look into adding a secondary. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I forgot to purge, but it has run long enough to get rid of the air. Thanks for the tip on the gauge. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk