Recent content by Handyfarmer

IF you do go with the adapter, and buy the kit and get the 1.5 amp hr batteries in the kit, don't expect that much out of the batteries, there fine for the compact drills and drivers, but don't shine that well in heaver draw tools, saws and grinders etc. plan on buying the 3 or 4 or 5 amp hr...

is the circular saw a 6 3/8 or the larger unit, what do you want for the set of tools? PM me a price. a picture would be nice as well.

one can still buy the 18 volt batteries and I have bought the adaptors, (amazon has a seller that is selling a dewalt adaptor copy, about half of the price of the dewalt adaptor, and works well, for using the 20 volt, one will need a 20 volt charger for the 20 volt batteries, I am slowly...

one must first understand what torque is, and how it play out in a bolt, first metal stretches, so the trick is via it design, bolts are used to clamp something together, if things move or have stress on them, then the bolt gets stretched, if the bolt gets stretched more than it is...

the truth is one should be looking into a 220/240 volt unit in the true 3 to 5 hp range, on 120, about the largest size of motor one can have is about 17 amps, with snapping a 20 amp breaker and about 12 amp on a 15 amp breaker, or in the 1800 watt area, that is about a max of 1.5 hp may be 2...

a "muck truck" may do the trick, some places rent them, https://www.mucktruck.com/ it is a 4 wheel drive motorized wheel barrow, I made one, and one can use a ramp and even run the dirt up into a pick bed, they will climb up a set of stairs,

I find the GRK the best, the points are designed in such a way that pre drilling is usually not necessary, and they will cut the hole the screw needs, I bought a box of grip tight when using on 1x4 lumber and needed to pre drill ever hole to keep from splitting with the GRK no problem, I...

unless you have a true 5 hp, on the table saw, I would not use a table saw to rip with get a worm drive hand saw, like a SKIL 77, (or what ever there number is now), or a copy of one, they will rip and rip and keep on going, snap a chalk line and saw or use the rip fence guide on the saw...

I would strip it down to the current sheeting and sheat over with 1/2 or 5/8 leaving the 3/8 under it, I am no engineer, but have been building for over 40 years, and with that center wall down the middle I am sure you will not have any problems, the trusses were designed to clear span, and with...

I have built a lot of stuff out of culled lumber in the past, some times (if it get wet again) it will straighten out, and if held in place it will dry straight, on the bowed and bad stuff, the blocking and short pieces normally will work out well, my stair way in the barn the treads are...

how wide is the house, or how wide are the trusses, and what is the cord size, (bottom board), are there walls in the house that run in the same direction of the truss supporting walls, or is it open from one out side wall to the other out side wall? with out some more info, difficult...

I don't know if e replacement would have parts, or not, there are a few on line parts depots for tool parts, I would guess they would cover makita as well. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-saw-parts-c-97_98.html

I have a 12 inch version of that saw, I bought new, many moons a go, I am guessing in about 1974 or 75, I used it 95% of the time for cross cutting, and when I got the power miter saw, it sets on the table of the radial arm saw and now does 98% of the cross cutting,

it looks like a jointer or jack plane, nice looking plan, looks well cared for,

I don't know how much they appreciate in value much, but I do not think a quality tool drops in value as fast as many items, no I am not interested in paying more than needed for a tool, I have seen some live auction stuff go for more than new, torches and wrenches sets seem to hold there...