Recent content by Jack Burton

I agree, I'd pay more attention to that rafter/beam. I think the tube can hold a load in the middle of about 350lbs at a 1:1 safety factor assuming the material is **** 36k SCH40 pipe. The mounts look nice and rigid. Deflection amount is not a failure here, it's wall buckling and collapse...

ANY knife will snap if you abuse it. They're made for cutting, not prying. That said, the Buck Vantage line is the best bang for the buck I've found. Pocket clip in the right place, can be opened and CLOSED with one GLOVED hand, made in the U.S., and guaranteed by God all for about $25. I...

I'm looking for a smooth steel low-profile saddle/crossover box. So far I've seen Weatherguard and Jobox. I think UWS used to make them but they're not on their website anymore. Do you know of any others?

The thing in the OP's post is a small version of a stacker. The side rails are made of 1/4" angle in which the platform rides on using die rollers (2 on the back of the angle, 2 on the front face of the angle). It would be pretty easy to make a rudimentary version of it.

I have no reason to take it personally, perhaps we just have different experiences. I've found wire drill cups, wire wheels for grinders, and needle scalers remove rust but leave a a glazed over oxidation layer. Needle scalers also beat the hell out of steel. Perhaps you've dealt with with...

Agreed. I think the threaded ears are for a puller, not jack screws. Jack screws would crush the shield on the bearing. The counterweight may be a friction fit, but it would still need a setscrew and shaft-flat to keep it in position.

I loathe Harbor Freight but I always rave about the same two things, their US General toolboxes and their 4x6 horiz. bandsaw. I got my bandsaw for around $160 w/ coupon a couple years ago. They kick ***.

Over the past 18 years, I've tried all sorts of things including everything mentioned so far. The cheapest way I'd personally do it is use an impregnated stripper wheel in a drill, like and then a rust converter and paint, or just POR-15 after stripping. You have more than surface rust...

I think lathes are very innocuous looking to people who don't realize what kind of power is contained in that cabinet and that the chuck is essentially a lawn mower blade as far as your flesh is concerned. Lathes remind me of firearms in a way in that if someone never drilled into your mind how...

Precisely what I was thinking. Don't ever forget how many Americans depend on Hypertherm plasmas for production too. The wheel goes round and round.

For what the OP asked, I would recommend 3M Mar-Hyde spray on rust converter followed with any old **** automotive paint or the spray max 2K epoxy in a can, again followed with any old **** automotive paint. Those should serve his purpose. Eastwood is too expensive when it comes to spray can...

I can't imagine a hobbyist going through coolant all that quickly with manual machines. Though I do find spray bottles waste a lot of coolant. The pot and flux brush to me is a much more efficient and cleaner method. You can get the coolant where you need it without making a mess on the bed...

I too will spend double to get an American made item in most cases. Tools, clothing, whatever it may be. One monetary advantage for American manufacturers is they don't need to stock a whole bunch of imported stuff and eat up overhead paying for the shelf space. Lead times for Chinese goods...

Not bad for $2.99. I'm sure CB/scanner people or A/V dorks would love them.

Great thread. Old machines with modern touches. Can you rig a momentary footswitch for forward/reverse? I use that feature alot but I'm not sure if it's the motor or the gear train that's switching directions.