Recent content by jasonrohrer

What kind of pipe do you have going down into the dry well? PVC? Is there some kind of outdoor PVC that I should use, or just the white plumbing stuff?

It's filled with loud, oily air! If I need to drain it entirely, like if I'm working on one of the connections (like when I was fixing a leak in the ball valve piping), it's nice to have that all go outside, instead of hearing and breathing it. I have filters (water filter and coalescing...

No, I don't drain it all the way down. Just a quick blast, like 1/2 second. I took petcock out that shipped with it. The opening was 1/2 NPT female. I made threaded pipe connections from that, with elbows, etc, until it was sticking out far enough to reach, and I put a 1/2 ball valve on...

I have my air compressor draining out the side of my garage. I just learned today that the noise is driving my neighbor nuts and scaring his dog. Is there a sensible way to muffle it? Especially one that won't cause too much back-pressure (it's connected with flexible vinyl hose and the nub...

New replacement Coilhose 88-series regulator (same model) does NOT have a nick in the supply valve seat and does NOT exhibit the bad behavior in testing at various supply pressures. It holds the set pressure without constantly venting air through the relieving port. That's good news for me, in...

Well, the new one arrived from MSC today... I haven't processed the return for the bad one yet. They're still reviewing my request. But to keep my project on track, I ordered another one late yesterday afternoon, and it's here already. Wild. I haven't inspected it yet. Will report back...

Ah! 3-piece ball valves. I've never seen those before at FW Webb. I will look tomorrow and see what they have. Wow... are these like $100 each? They definitely look cool and worth the money.

Here are the pictures of the current setup. I could definitely put unions to the right of the regulator and to the left of the black Nano filter... but if I ever took the filter-filter-regulator line apart (NPT threads) and then put it back together again, it probably wouldn't be the right...

Yeah, I thought about unions... But if the ends are sweated (which they have to be, because my existing shop lines are sweated).... and NPT threads "sink in" a variable amount when you tighten them (there's no torque spec for them, etc).... I figured that unions require a fixed length to span...

Yeah, I did think about trying to sand it out. But if it didn't work... then I wouldn't be able to return it. It's brand new! Though sanding it out would mean I wouldn't have to un-sweat the old one out and re-sweat the new one into place. Might even be worth eating the $150 that it cost me...

Yeah, after sending them pictures, they're telling me this isn't a "replaceable part" (because it's not a part they stock, given that it's the body of the regulator that contains this defective valve seat). So I need to return it to MSC. I've initiated that process. Unfortunately, I can't...

No, the way this pressure release works is different than that. There's actually a HOLE in the center of the diaphragm with a little brass seat around it. The brass seat is attached to the diaphragm and moves with it. There's a tiny rubber... stopper... in that brass seat with a little hole...

Yes, it's in the top "shoulder" of the bell, right next to the t-handle adjustment screw.

ControlAir has a 2-3 week lead time.... I guess I'm stuck getting a replacement Coilhose from MSC...

I have one of these regulators installed after the water separator and coalescing filter on my new Saylor Beall air compressor. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/80074016 Bringing it all up to pressure, everything is working great, and the 88-series is regulating pressure just fine...