Recent content by jlv03

Black "box" on the left with L1/T1 and L2/T2 on it is the contactor for the compressor. I suspect this is where your problem lies (compressor not turning off when cool cycle is complete). One quick thing to check, though is to remove the wire from the thermostat and see if that makes a...

Stumbled across an interesting use of the term "monoblock" a few days ago in regards to heat pump. Up until now, I have associated the term to mean an air-to-water heat pump, where only the water is brought inside. Looks like Mr. Cool is using the term for an all-in-one heat pump setup...

Depending on how long you need, looks like you can get extension cables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DFQ1BS8P?tag=atomicindus08-20

Leviton has an article on their website that might help: https://captaincode2020.leviton.com/node/251

What kind of water heater do you have? If it is electric, have you considered replacing with a heat pump water heater?

I suspect that the system isn't variable (as you wouldn't have as many problems as the unit would adjust as needed), but is there a chance the outdoor unit is two stage?

I have an electric boiler, so different thought process vs. a gas boiler. I usually kill the 40A breaker on the boiler itself around this time of year, turn it back on sometime in September. Two reasons I kill the breaker. First is so I don't hear the safety contactor buzz all summer. Second...

How much research do I need to do? Norcal simply stated there was no listing for the contactor linked. It wasn't specified what listing they were needing, so my response was that the contactor does have a wide variety of standards listings, just not the one that may be expected for the US...

DP = definite purpose. Picture on Big Green website shows that contactor as UR, CE, RoHS, and CSA. Not sure what more listings you need, but seems better than the majority of “ETL” ones sprinkled on the online retailers.

Is there a chance that a float switch on the pan is cutting off something?

The 24V transformer, like the summer fan switch, internal thermostat, and 24V relay, are all marked with an * to denote they are options to the standard 3 phase design.

Anything with WiFi will need continuous power. On 24V thermostats that's why you always see posts about running a "C" common wire to complete the circuit for continuous power. In this case, the line voltage thermostats with WiFi will need either a neutral (if 120VAC) or the opposite leg (if...

Are you sure you aren't thinking of GenerLink? https://shopgenerlink.com/ The Enphase collar doesn't have connections large enough to support any sort of current going into the collar connections.

From what I can tell from the Enphase spec sheets, seems like the collar is some sort of control/islanding device to allow for the home to run off grid when needed. https://enphase.com/store/storage/gen4/iq-meter-collar...

No 5" wide ones though. :( https://www.filtrete.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b5005597009/