Recent content by jmroach

Security+ 2.0 certainly looks like a solution in search of a problem... Note that the LJ8900W says it uses Security+ 2.0, but I can confirm that a normal "dry contact" switch is what it ships with. Ie. simply completing the circuit between the terminals activates the open/close functions.

Good to know on myQ... I'm on iOS, but that's not surprising. The switches the 8900 comes with are very simple momentary switches. It looks like the 8500s come with fancier versions of the same (the terminals & setup of the opener look identical). I wouldn't be surprised if the 8900 and 8500...

Thanks for the input & agree. It looked to me like many of the failures were tied to an issue w/ the control board ~2017. I'll definitely do a bit more reading though. I'm getting the 5 new openers installed, so I'm a little constrained on the openers I can use (residential, etc.) All 5 will...

joists run front-to-back on 2 bays. Side-to-side on the other. In all cases, I'll be cutting drywall and drilling joists/studs. Not a huge deal and something I may end up doing anyway. I need to run 120v to 2 of the openers as well...

I saw that and I'm likely missing something. How do you train the transmitter to work with the opener? I realize there is probably an obvious answer...

I like this idea, but I'm somewhat apprehensive about adding to my 'smart' stuff. I currently have about a dozen smart switches, some leak detectors, TVs, a few bulbs, etc. running through a SmartThings hub. Honestly, I haven't been overly impressed. For the automated switches in daily...

This kind of approach looks cool. Has someone been successful getting this to work with Liftmaster 8X00 or similar openers? The datasheet link on their website is broken... https://www.obohos.com/pd.jsp?fromColId=107&id=88

Stapled surface mount wouldn't pass the wife test. I love this idea of flat wire, but I have a large unpainted gluelam beam in the garage this would have to go over-- so I'd be back to sheetrock repair. I'm leaning toward a wireless opener now to get everything working and then wiring an...

I just posted a kind of boring question here, but this one is a bit more fun. I'm in early construction on a pretty large garage addition to a house. The addition is ~30x40 main area with an additional bay for a lift to the side w/ 2 bedrooms upstairs-- see foundation print below to get an...

The openers are in different places-- jack shaft at the side of the door vs chain-drive back on the ceiling.

I'm in the process of replacing 3 very old chain-drive garage door openers with Liftmaster 8900W openers. The old openers were wired to separate switches by the entry door to the house. Of course, I could hard wire new switches from the openers to the same location, but that would be a bit of...

Thanks to all in advance for your help! I'm moving out of a house with a 3-car attached garage (2-post lift in the garage) and great (20x25+) workshop (primarily woodworking) in the basement. We're moving into a house with 3-car attached garage and no space for a workshop in the basement. The...

Thanks to all for the advice. I'm with Mike on this one in that I do value the ALI certification. My thought was that the more expensive lifts & brands would have done the stress analysis, etc. on the important parts which do not 'wear' with responsible use-- arms & posts should really not...

I searched like crazy before posting this and was surprised to come up empty-handed. Here's the situation-- I have decided to buy a 2-post lift to use for general car maintenance (personal, not commercial). It's mainly going to be for working on smaller sports cars, but will occasionally have...