Recent content by JoeLee1

I machine hex keys all the time for various applications, they're hard but they're not that hard. Unless you have a mill where you can precisely locate the hole I would suggest drilling it oversized to compensate for error. Joe....

I think your on the right track with the waterproof roof coating, but 5 years goes by pretty fast and then you find yourself trying to clean off all the old coating to reapply a fresh coat. But I'm sure you'll develop leaks around the bolts long before the 5 years is up as the material will...

Those quonset hut buildings are almost impossible to waterproof. Between bolts and panel seams the leaks never stop. Then there's the issue of where the steel meets the concrete around the perimeter. Water constantly running in the building. Rubberized coating on the roof is a good idea to seal...

If you were giving away cancer I'd win.

I keep all the manuals for my machines and welders in a folder and in a filing cabinet. I also keep all my receipts and invoices from all the suppliers that I buy from. I keep notes on the receipts as to what the stuff was used for. Steel distributors, hardware stores, and lumber yards. I also...

I've never seen anyone paint over spray foam before. That stuff doesn't end up perfectly flat. It's usually done where you don't care about the appearance. Painting over would make it resemble the walls of a cave. Joe.....

2 inches of spray foam isn't much especially in Michigan. If it were me I would fir walls out, put 6 in of insulation in and then 5/8 sheetrock. Joe.....

The two processes that I mentioned previously are just as susceptible to damage as the process that you just mentioned. I've seen a few buildings that this local contractor has done, they look real nice but the exterior is very delicate. Corners that have been bumped and crushed, as well as...

Interesting, the only reason for that happening that I can think of is the house is now sealed up so tight that it doesn't breathe. Running a dehumidifier inside would probably help. I have to say that I'm very fortunate because nothing in my shop rusts. During the summer I run a dehumidifier...

Yes, the thermal bridging or lack of a thermal break in the block wall is the largest culprit as you say. That's why trying to spray or inject foam into the cores is just a waste of time and money. Joe...

Yes, I've seen it done both ways. Some scribe out the mortar joints using a straight edge as a guide to make it look like brick and some set in thin pieces of brick to the mortar after they spray it. Scribing or scratching out the joints is probably the faster way to do it. They put down 2"...

Trying to inject foam into the cores of the block is worthless with the amount of mortar that squeezes out and blocks the cores. I did pour zonalite down the walls before I bolted the plate down but that stuff settles out over the years and has like an R3 value. The building isn't heaving, the...

I never thought about starting the wall a few inches above the ground. I don't know how that would work with snow. Terminating the top with the Z channel or bending a piece of aluminum at an angle would be a better approach as the birds wouldn't be able to perch on it. The foundation is poured...

I know..... why didn't I insulate it when it was built. Well, back in the mid 80's heat bills weren't too bad. The building is 8" block. It's next to impossible to try to insulate the walls on the inside with all the electrical conduit, switch and outlet boxes and air lines that are all over...

That's what I paid for mine. Bought it at the local Yamaha dealer in the early 70's. Joe......