Recent content by johnharris

I used Alex Plus sealant to fill in the gaps. If you want it appearing smooth like my walls then shop around for the slickest OSB. I used Blue Ribbon OSB I got at Lowes for $10 a sheet. You want to paint on the smooth side of the OSB. I used 1 5/8" backer on screws to mount it. They are...

Last month I finished enclosing the walls and ceiling in the garage I built just last year. Last summer it was hot as hell in the garage. With no ceiling the soffit and ridge vents cannot do their job. I used a panel lift to screw 7/16 OSB to the trusses. After insulating the walls with...

LEDs don't interfere with the two chamberlain openers I installed in my new garage one year ago. Maybe it's cause they have hanging antenna wires about 6" long below the unit?

The access panel is quite tight but being thin I can easily make it thru that 13.5" opening. I finished the ceiling 2 weeks ago. I decided to insulate and board up the walls before painting the ceiling. I threw 1 layer of Kilz original oil based primer followed with 2 layers of latex ceiling...

I took mine apart and strapped it all together. Takes up much less space with the wheel beams off the floor.

With the 32 x 32 garage I finished earlier this year I just matched the house and did 18" overhangs. The pitch is 7/12. Having 6" seamless gutters installed I first nailed on sub-fascia boards onto the fine cut rafter tails. Sub fascia boards are bevel cut 2x4s. I wrapped the 1 x6 fascia boards...

I'm in the process of throwing OSB in my shop. I just finished the ceiling. After I'm done making the rafter vents and filling the attic with cellulose I'll start the walls. Same as the ceiling I'll screw the OSB onto the walls to make future removal easier. After the walls are done I'll throw...

The access panel will be 14.5" x 48". To keep it from sagging I'll use sandwiched 3/4" plywood. It will be sturdy enough to make it longer on each end as you suggested. I'll add 2" foam pads on top of the panel and around the boxed 2x4s. I got a panel lift over a decade ago at HF for under...

I'll probably just make a small push up panel. Instead of OSB I'll make the panel out of sandwich 3/4" plywood I have left over. I will leave a few 12' long 2x10 walking planks on both sides to make walking on those bottom chords easier.

Forgot to mention nothing will be stored up there. I'll rarely use the access panel. Just need to reach the wires and blown insulation in the near future.

Where can I find a folding ladder only 14" wide to fit between those 16" on center bottom chords?

To cool down the garage I'm adding 7/16 OSB to the truss bottom chords. Adding a ceiling the soffit and ridge vents can now do their job. Was way too hot the first summer of this garage I built this past winter. Having fink trusses that are 16" on center I only see the option of making an access...

I wouldn't use deck screws for framing. Framing nails have much more torque. The 3-in-1 framing nail gun from Harbor Freight has served me well. I only used deck screws for temporary bracing the walls and trusses before the sheathing was nailed on.

The owner of a local lumber yard said prices temporarily dropped early last fall cause people held off buying lumber at that ripoff rate. The big box stores shelves where overstocked so they had to get it cleared.

If the metal roof is hanging too far for gutters ask them to cut some off. My cousin uses battery powered turbo shears to cut a few inches off when needed.