Recent content by jstroede

I would say if you are going to go the trial and error route, be ready for a LOT of error.

Holy **** that's picture overload. I like it! Yes that is a standard 400-8 drum. Put 8.5 turns on it. You might have to add another quarter turn, but safer to add then overwind it to start. When you start, the painted line on the spring should be straight. That rule of thumb is for guys...

funny you showed a ton of pictures, but not one of probably the most important thing, the cable drum. The cable drum and door height will determine the turns. It SHOULD be a 400-8 drum and I would start about 8.5 turns, but I would need to see the cable drum to confirm that.

Just do it right the first time. Every door manufacturer does these track configurations all the time. It might seem special to you, but it is a daily thing for them.

Some of it depends on the design of the door. Some doors have backing material that runs the full height of the section at those hinge locations. If that door is what I think it is, it should have. It can work in those instance how it is attached. It is never a bad idea to use the operator...

it looks like at some point the opener pushed down on the section entirely too hard. I would look to add an operator reinforcement bracket. One sort of like this: https://www.amazon.com/Xadnitu-Reinforcement-Bracket-Operator-Repairing/dp/B0CM3CKYKS/?tag=atomicindus08-20 John

This is a horrible idea. Torsion springs don't work that way. Just use everything that comes with the new doors. If you really want, you can upgrade the springs when they break. Standard torsion springs will be good for 10k-12k cycles generally. The chance of your old springs working on...

I think the OP needs a new tape measure. There is not 5" from the top of that window to the bottom of the weatherstripping. If that was the case, he is saying that the top of the window is currently like 8" under the header. I don't believe that. Funny thing that in none of these...

I used one of these with some bushings and copper for mine. It looks good and works well.

so those are meant to attach to the top of the section, with two rollers in the radius. As the top section goes around it flattens out and maintains a lower distance above the horizontal tracks. In the high lift application, there is no radius (at the top of the door when it is closed), so you...

Glad you got it worked out.

Those are not meant for use in a high lift application. They have their place, but not really here.

Can you show the door closed? You may be able to get away without doing anything with the track. Is that a 2" thick door? You really probably don't need a strut since you aren't using a trolley opener and have no windows. You need to get the roller as close to the top of the door as...

Yes, a high lift with roof pitch does require high lift drums. If roof pitch is over 12:12, then you typically go to vertical lift drums.

That's high lift, not roof pitch. Two different things.