Recent content by kd7gab

Assuming your compressor is up for the task, you could go pnuematic: http://www.grizzly.com/products/Pneumatic-Sheet-Metal-Shear/T23094 ~Jon Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

abeo is on the right track. You will most likely get more vibration than direct noise through the floor. I highly recommend the suggested isolation mounts. They can be found pretty inexpensively online or your installer (assuming this isn't DIY installed) should be able to provide these. Some...

You do have a few options, not all of which will require ripping down the drywall. If you do have space between your ceiling and the bedroom floor, your could blow in dense pack cellulose. Cellulose is dirt cheap, will increase the R-value of the floor and cuts down on noise transmission. After...

Send me a PM if you're needing plates from Washington and/or Idaho. Pretty sure i could send you two from Washington, if you cared to have more than one... Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

I second the 4' height recommendation. Outlets at 4' are super convenient in a shop space. As far as number of 120v outlets, I lean toward installing as many as you can afford, without getting too ridiculous. It is always easier to add now vs when the walls are closed in... Sent from my...

Yes, I have these on my fridge supply at home and a pair of environmental chambers at work. Very inexpensive insurance against one of the most common leaks in a house... Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

I have done exactly this (shortening a whip) on several projects, with whips from HD... Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

You may want to go bigger than 2" conduit if you run aluminum wire. The aluminum will not flex as easily as equivilent copper conductors. For the wire size, the breaker in your main panel and the voltage drop calculations will dictate the size for you. Use your max simultaneous current draw +...

Check out deepsurplus.com for inexpensive rack options. I use them for quite a few items and have always been pleased with cost and quality.

You will need to remove any bonding strap from the nuetral buss in your subpanel. The ground and nuetral are only bonding at the first panel, the first fed from the service entrance (current code). This is generally a super easy item to address and something an inspector should look for.

I would remove the neutral bonding strap. Your inspector may raise an eyebrow with it hanging out inside the panel. As you likely already know, remote subpanels should never have the nuetral bonded to the ground, to prevent ground loop issues.

I have to agree with others, if I were replacing a water line for my house I would want the plumber to go with 160/200 PSI PE or go with HDPE (High Density Polyethylene). HDPE is commonly used for geothermal loops and can take the weight and abuse one would want a water line to be able to deal...

Definitely checkout the link I posted earlier. They have full on vibration isolators designed for use with HVAC and they come in a variety of designs and weight capacities.

You may find something appropriate through Supply House (great place for lots of plumbing and HVAC stuff): http://www.supplyhouse.com/Vibration-Isolators-23502000

Depending on your budget, there are plenty of materials available for acoustic damping. If you were to make use of any kind of acoustic foam product, be sure it is class A fire rated. Foam based product are definitely not ideal for a shop space... Here is a product I've installed in our lab at...