Recent content by KJ in VT

Just excatly how do you figure water flows into your house if the system is not pressurized? Water doesn't care if its pressurized by pump or by elevation. The gauge doesn't know the diifernece. Good god...this forum...the ignorance...goodbye TGJ, I'm gone.

Always seemed to me that if you need to keep the snow ON your metal roof then metal was the wrong choice. Or you've designed your project wrong to use a metal roof (i.e. doors under the drip eves, parking the the fall zone). One way or another, trying to keep snow on the roof is even more reason...

Yep, snow slides of a steep metal roof...until it doesn't. Is your structure heated? I can say for certain that it doesn't always slide off my 10/12 pitch, relatively new, coated metal roof. And we typically shovel our 4/12 pitch camp roof twice a winter. Can be pretty exciting as once the snow...

Gotta chuckle. Don't have need to plow or blow much snow do you? OP is in Syracuse, NY. Open graded stone makes beautiful windrows on the lawn from a plow and window shattering projectiles from a snowblower. The older I get, the more I wish I didn't have to plow or blow snow.

When discussing the adequacy of the municipal stormdrain system, all should keep in mind that, almost universally, stormwater management standards (assuming the municipality actually has any) only require that pre- and post-development discharges be kept the same for a given frequency design...

Its a subgrade problem that won't be corrected with top coat. There is a reason for AOT road specs; yes they are way over the top for private residential applications. Adequate hydraulic relief of the spec base material will help, but even saturated spec base material will have a much higher...

Ice would be my concern with any panelized product. Wouldn't take much of a dam to back water way up the roof with such low slopes. And not much thermal drive to keep the venting working and the roof cool; at least it would be in the shade of the deck, I guess. Maybe not a big deal...until it is.

Damn I'm glad I live where I am still free to build and live in my own squallor. :)

Every install I've ever seen had the baffle extending over the top of, and beyond the exterior plane of the wall. Allows the insulation to be continuous within and over the top of the wall. But that was with typical rafter/rafter tie construction. Any reason you wouldn't do it that way? Using...

The purpose of the soffit vents is not just moisture management, but to maintain cold roof as well. Without the cold roof, ice will accumulate, at best creating an ice-fall hazard and at worst an ice dam that can create leaks. I'd say soffit vent required, baffles depending on how the...

As I said in your other thread re: ordering the building, most homeowners are better served by retaining a site design engineer (as distinct from a structural engineer, but may be the same guy) to talk with the City about their requirements. Most homeowners and regulators don't speak the same...

Sliders? Double tracks with the right door on the outer track. Furr out the trim around the right door to match the depth of the left door and install flashing/trim over the header to cover the full depth of both doors/tracks. But, and may be a big but, if the slab at the door aprons don't...

Fine when someone else has already put up that 12-15 cords. But getting that part done when you're an old guy all but precludes worrying about how the pig gets fed: no wood, no problem.

What am I missing? You either go laterally out the side of the unit then 90 through the wall and 90 again down the outside, or straight through the wall 90 to the side then 90 down. Either way, its two 90's. Not hard to argue that the later option will be easier with the two bends further apart...

The "link" is the "fabric".