Recent content by klrdiant

wizzy .. i'm in canada too, doing radiant for a living .. hence the name; kl radiant.. keeping people warm with trench slinkys and ice fishing those same lakes .. factory trained, research done bud .. thanks though

i dunno where you're getting your info wiz .. it's a bit out dated to be diplomatic nowadays we have cheaper smaller heat pumps, and shallow trench slinky systems .. there are both open and closed systems that can use ponds, lakes or springs for heat source we have hybrid heat pump/element...

sorry wiz, i didn't mean to piss you off .. i read this, "The doors do leak a bit of air if there is enough wind load on them, but that's only in extreme situations" and thought it meant that doors do leak a bit of air if there is enough wind load on them, but that's only in extreme situations

i haven't read much of this thread so please forgive any repetition from other responses - the problem with using a tank system to provide the heat input is that tanks have very poor recovery .. that means they struggle to maintain design water temperature during periods when they are operating...

x3 (or 4) on the moisture barrier .. water under your slab can wick the heat out faster than you can put it back in

the only issue is concrete reacting to the fitting if you use wirsbo/uponor pex and their expansion ring system with their plastic fittings you won't have problems .. just join it and forget it if i had to work with watts or heatlink or something that doesnt have proprietary inert...

1. depends on the manufacturer .. typically 140 degrees 2. yes, use oxygen barrier pex, aka heat pex .. if you don't keep oxygen out of the system you're gonna have corrosion issues 3. you can bury them in the spray foam 4. yes, 1/2" sharkbite fittings work with 1/2" copper, 1/2" pex and 1/2"...