Recent content by krandrew

You can use 1 or 2" rigid insulation on the outside to help insulate the concrete. Use concrete faced insulation and a flashing with a drip edge to cover the top. You need this to protect the insulation from UV and makes it look good

There's a steel bracket that provides support for the coil. They all seem to come loose from the factory and rattle. Located just behind the louvers. Tighten up the screw on top and maybe secure the bottom with some aluminum tape

You can use a tarp mat made for under cars. The trick is to tape down some thick rope around the perimeter (under the mat) to better contain the water. Also find a way to tape down the mat to the floor to keep it from sliding around.

You can use dual wall shrink tubes with the hot glue inside it. Just put a sticker or label behind it. Works nicely on larger cables

The depth of the hole has nothing to do with the drop in anchor setting properly. It only dictates the pull out strength. If they used a vacuum and tried to **** out the dust then there was likely some still in there. The proper way is to blow out the hole and use a brush on the sides. Any bit...

We can speculate all day so if you want a path going forward, I would recommend this: 1) Core the slab and send the core to a concrete testing facility to get the in-situ strength of your slab 2) At the same time, you can scan the slab to see if there is in fact rebar in it and get a rough idea...

My guess is that the slab is missing rebar + also has a very low strength. A drop in anchor should never cause something like that.

Definitely put your stone in first then trench for the drain lines. It allows you to easily grade the lines and also provides protection working around them