Recent content by kspwski

I'm in too!

We've had success using a single dovetail to hold two pieces together to make something that didn't fit on the printer bed. Took a little trial and error, but ultimately worked well.

I use Homeseer as well with my computer as a hub. Homeseer and Alexa work well together so everything is voice controlled. I did not want a bunch of fragmented solutions which can happen easily in today's home automation space.

I bet something like this would work well and only drop the heater by minimal amount. The rubber washer would go in between the heater bracket and the drywall, the rubber "stud" would go through heater bracket. They have different load ratings based on your heater weight.

Yup, I'd be doing this wirelessly too. How far from house to barn? Ubiquiti AirMax stuff is where I'd end up as well. Look around for pricing, Amazon has been more expensive for Ubiquiti stuff for me.

On the bypass bulbs (most of them), the bulbs have drivers built into them that are designed to accept line voltage.

Pay attention to the wireless technology used. WiFi is an option, but a wireless automation technology (zwave, zigbee, insteon, etc) would be better. My recommendation would be to go zwave, this does mean you need a hub. The hub takes care of interaction between internet and zwave along with...

I'm excited to see that there are some off the shelf Z-Wave options nowdays! That's pretty new I think. Why stay away from Control 4? Cost? Customization? Sorry to hijack

Using flux is probably another 200% improvement. I use a15$ temp controlled (ish) iron from parts-express, clean tip, flux and have great success.

If you can't find a rockwheel, look for a chain trencher with rock teeth on it, especially if you don't have to go too deep. Rental yards might have em.

I've never used the products before, but some research led me to www.preservation-solutions.com. I have some old horse tack I'd like to restore and plan to use their stuff.

Looks like I'm late to the party. I separate the strap from the ratchet, coil it up tight and put in and ammo can. When separated ammo box stays untangled. The key for me is to coil the long strap with the hook out rather than coiling around the hook. Then you just hook on and flip the strap...

Perfect! Glad we could help.

Right, check to enable flow from outlet of motor to inlet of motor. I got confused when you started talking about case drains.

How do you plan on hooking up to the case drain, where do you plan on the check going?