Recent content by kwb

I cheezed out- direct bury Cat6 wire about 3" under the grass, no full trench just a slice in the turf and tucked the wire in. Several years now and no problem, someday I might forget and cut it, if I do .... it probably is time for a better wire. Had it done in a couple hours. About 200' of...

I have three ~42in fans I got off the clearance rack at Lowe's. Installed on the premise that something is better than nothing. Completely unfinished interior on a stick framed building. About 16ft off the floor. On a hot day they help without blasting you with a hurricane. Depending on where...

Since the OP has never returned I will weigh in in this. First rules of real estate are location, location, location. If you find a spot you like but no suitable houses for your needs you have 2 options, massive remodel or tear-down. Usually if you can do the tear-down without triggering a...

I used rope, a couple 2x6's and a truck. If you get nervous about the size you can always do the wall in a couple sections. If I was building again I would have a forklift or telehandler on site for a week or so.

Whenever I see a stick frame erected without sheeting I have to wonder why the people doing it like to make a job harder on themselves? We fully sheated my 42x14' walls and I even caulked the nail heads for the part of the wall that was done in T1-11. 5 amateur crew and we had all 5 wall...

I rented a small scissor lift for setting mine. Three man operation. One in the lift, one on each end. Few hours for a group of rookies on a Saturday

I have a similar trailer - didn't think too much about it since it was for snowmobiles which are fairly light. I wish I had upsized the axles when I ordered it, I also wish I opted for the thicker skin thickness (.040" instead of .030")

I came here to say the same thing. I would get at least 16" and have at least 2' of eve overhang. Solves the door problem very easily. I have 14' walls and a 14' door 6' offset from the side wall with scissor truss. No problem whatsoever. Track is still 8-10" from the bottom of the truss.

Hoists are all designed to a minimum 5:1 factor of safety. They won't even get close to lifting 5x rating but people do dumb things with them. As mentioned they also have braking elements that will keep them from moving if they aren't supposed to be. As for the jib that is mounted to the floor...

I would put OSB sheets up and call it good to get through inspection. For my own garage, I might use that OSB on a project in the near future.;) House not far from here did that on exterior stairs for several years so they could get CoO. Today it has an awesome welded stainless railing.

Actually not as much as you would think. Galvanize (zinc) protects surrounding metal pretty good even when it gets a penetration through to parent metal. It's not like a paint or powder that lets rust migrate under the coating.

My point wasn't that 11/16" is the answer here, just that an extra 1/16" is almost always enough on the unfinished part to be able to get assembled after the galvanize is done.

I build a lot of galvanized stuff for my 5/8" bolt holes I drill 11/16" hole with the mag drill. Between manufacturing tolerance and galvanized build up I rarely need to get the reamer.

You think sawdust is bad.... Plasma, grinding, welding are 100x worse for cleaning up and for as heavy as metal dust is, it does travel well.

At least use the full height of the wall and go 10'.