Recent content by lund

I have a gap gauge too. But every time I replace spark plugs these days they seem spot on the gap specification from the manufacturer insofar as I do not ding them. This seems to be the case with every type and brand that I check. The plugs are cheap enough where I tend to just replace them...

I am going to jinx myself by saying this: But to date, I have never lost a 10 mm socket in an extreme amount of DIY car work over 30+ years with high mileage cars kept far too long. I think I only lost one junk standard socket that I was using on a boat some time back where it bounced into the...

OMG: That looks like the clip on a transmission shift handle on a subaru forester automatic. I was working on the car and that popped off somewhere never to be found. Seems to work ok without it ... just do not pull up!! Worse, in contrast to a 10 mm socket, the clip seems impossible to find...

Thanks for posting this. I have a bunch of demanding string trimming too and fight the plastic string breaking too easily (though curiously, less trouble breaking off in the spool head). I think I will give this a try.

I can only imagine the mess if someone tried to drill out a stainless bolt with one of these going the wrong direction! For stainless, one better start out with a good quality cobalt drill (left handed or otherwise ... can always use a left-handed drill after an initial hole in the broken bolt...

Do any people have recommendations for a modest size ultrasonic cleaner (with heat) to use for car parts (mostly) that will not break the bank? This brand (looking at Amazon) has mixed reviews. But I guess for ~$200 for something around that size and complexity and weight, it is probably...

I have similar and find them VERY useful: removing sockets without quick release, a multitude of small prying needs, plastic car clips and body panels (works MUCH better than plastic prybars ... less damage to plastic panels and slips in easy), etc etc. The one I have is also surprisingly...

Absolutely! I have a torch too, but adds to the bag of tricks. The induction heater also has significantly more control than a torch even when you have enough access for a torch. It is also wise, when you live in the rust belt, when you put things back together to clean things up with a...

Good idea. I buy these (few different variants) and put them in toolbox drawers. They are kind of expensive but work surprisingly well without messing up surfaces noticeably. I hate rust so I can stomach the cost to prevent it. I find they work pretty long too. I date them and keep...

That is a good way to deal with them. I do similar and then spray down with WD-40 and wipe before putting away. I very rarely have any rust even when stored in an unconditioned garage and they are clean enough to cut well as well as read all the labeling. It is unfortunate though that...

Thanks. Got this model before the price went up significantly from about $110 to $210. I did some tests on some nuts and bolts. It should work well. It looks surprisingly substantial for the price. I live in Michigan and I tend to keep cars very long on our beat up and heavily salted...

Might work if the bleeder is steel. But if the bleeder is that hard to remove and corroded, it should probably be replaced and coat the new one with grease and a cap. If you are going to trash it most anything can probably do ... vice grips etc.

Two comments on this application: I am not sure it is a good idea to use an induction heater on a fuel line if that is what this is. Also, if the metal you are using an induction heater on is non-magnetic (stainless or brass/bronze) it will not couple as strongly to heat (maybe better if you...

I wish it were illegal to name a product or company "*** USA" when the products are not domestic. Seems deceptive labeling that is ridiculously common. Although I guess at this point, most everyone realizes it is a lie and most everything of this nature is not domestic production in any...