Recent content by Markfothebeast

The only issues I've found with Pex is that I don't trust the cinch clamps. These have to be installed nearly perfectly and it can be difficult to do in tight areas. I also read that a poisoned mouse will become thirsty enough to chew through Pex. Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

That wiring is definitely going to be replaced with 6/3 50-AMP appliance cord with a 4-prong plug. The ground and neutral will be separated. But for now I'm going to order the capacitor. I will update once I get the new components. -Markfothebeast- (www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

There pretty cheap too. It's about $8 - $12 for a new cap. -Markfothebeast- (www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

The capacitor is wired to one hot leg to the "on" switch and going to a transformer. Perhaps it has it has its own dedicated "start" winding like on an electric motor is what you are saying? -Markfothebeast- (www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

I'm only learning by means of the internet here. I would like to have more of an understanding! -Markfothebeast- (www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

Somewhere in this post a guy posted the results of using no capacitor and different capacitor values. That's quite a dramatic difference. I'm wanting to understand how the amount of capacitance impacts the welder. I also have a Thunderbolt 225 which uses no capacitor. Perhaps I could add a cap...

What would happen if I were to use a different microfarad value capacitor? I'd read an interesting amp draw test with the use of differently sized capacitors. There's quite a large drop in current with a larger MFD value. At least according to the test results. -Markfothebeast-...

The C-3 and C-5/C-B/C-BT all appear to use a 20 MFD 370 Volt Oil Filled capacitor. Can anyone tell me if it is possible to use a larger MFD capacitor with the same voltage rating or higher? I have a couple large microwave capacitors but I'm not quite sure if they are the same type...

Thanks for the offer but I'd prefer to find a parts unit locally if I really want to go that far. Unless you're located in Western WI? I was planning on making it work properly for my dad to learn how to weld with. -Markfothebeast- (www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

The cap definitely looks blown and oil covered. -Markfothebeast- (www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

I did find this service manual for the C5BT (I believe it's called). Looks similar. -Markfothebeast- (www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

I forgot to mention, there's a large capacitor inside. It looks like it may have failed (bulging). What's the purpose of the capacitor? Is this part of the battery charging function? My old Miller Thunderbolt with the shunt transformer doesn't contain a capacitor. I'll get a photo of it shortly...

I've only really taken a quick look under the top cover. I'm not familiar with the design of this type of "plug-in" stick welder. It looks like each of the transformers windings are tapped for different output currents. What confuses me is the battery charger function. How is the AC current...

It is called "Weatherwood Self Adhered Rolled Roofing". The description states, "Designed for direct to deck use or in conjunction with SA Base Pro." I do not have the "Base" rolls so I was wondering how well the synthetic underlayment would work underneath. Currently I'm still in the process...

I'm not a roofing professional by any means. I'd hired a "roofer" to replace the roofing. He failed to use common sense and did not use rolled roofing nor even suggest it. This is because of the low pitch, roughly 1/12. I did the tear off as I had to replace some sheathing. As I watched him work...