Recent content by Michael_PE2003

Gearbox ratio is 40:1. Pulley sizes are in the part lists. The early saws had three speeds, later saws had four and my early saw had a three groove on the motor and four on the gearbox and at least one other person had the same so apparently this was an interim step in the evolution of the...

Bracket mounted to the base... The tray is a wallpaper tray from Menards and cost a whopping $4.00 so if it gets damaged, it's no big deal to get another one. It's just about the perfect length to fit the blade opening plus a couple inches on each end and just the right height to fit just...

The last thing I wanted to do on the saw was to add a chip tray. I didn't want to drill holes in the base unless I really had to so instead, I found some longer bolts and will use the extra length to bolt the bracket for the tray to the inside of the base. The bolts I had were a little too...

I found a forgotten stash of "round-tuits" in a basement drawer this week and used them to get a few jobs done. I removed the gearbox and opened it up to put some new gaskets with RTV it to (hopefully) eliminate the couple drips a month leak. I also put a new seal in the hydraulic cylinder as...

I found a pictures of an early Kalamazoo band saw, kind of looks like a prototype with cobbled up cover, no belt guard and no spring adjusting lever. The picture is dated 5/17/1939, which is the year Kalamazoo Tank and Silo Company started selling saws. I found the picture at the link...

Minor update...I finally got around to ordering a spare counterbalance spring for the saw, I figured I better order it before it became NLA for such an old saw, probably just did the future owner a big favor as it's unlikely I'll ever need it. Surprised that the cost was the same as it was a...

Mine is the later 103.0305 but uses the same spring and knob. Mine was also missing the knob and spring. I have seen them on ebay occasionally at around $100. I have a lathe, so I made my own from a piece of aluminum...

That turned out fantastic, love it!

I started with soap and water, then simple green on the harder stuff. There was still some stuff, like pine tar, left so I used mineral spirits to get that off using a q-tip. Careful around the serial number, the mineral spirits started to dissolve the ink.

Not really. The one on this grinder is the only one I have so I didn't have to research a replacement. I expect some searching will turn up some info from others who had similar switch issues. Maybe "block grinder switch" will turn up some leads. Good luck, I'm sure something will work out...

Thanks Bugzilla! I’ve used it a ton and it is sooo much nicer to use now. As always, don’t know why I waited so long.

No problem, I've never seen a bench grinder wheel that wasn't a vitrified wheel. They may exist but I've never seen it. If you look in the picture above, it says it on the blotter/label. They have the typical open grained, porous appearance, kind of like lava rock. Resin and rubber bond...

Thanks for the links lmg. The first link refers to resin bond wheels which do age, it does mention that vitrified wheels don't have an infinite life but doesn't give any guidelines. I did find this on the Unified Abrasive Manufacturers Association (UAMA) website regarding wheel shelf life...

I did a quick search on "using old grinder wheels" and nothing specific popped up in the first four pages of results. Do you have a link?

I rang both of them before putting them on and the blotters are in good shape. Is there more to it than that? I already turned the grinder on (I never stand in front as a rule) and they run well but haven't ground with them yet and I won't until I true them up.