Recent content by micromind

I use shallows unless I need a deep.

Welcome from western Nevada, USA.

Lol.

Once the plywood is on the outside and the 2X4 runners are installed on the trusses, it's actually a pretty solid wall.

I know them as whalers. Once one side of the plywood concrete forms are set, holes are drilled in both sides and snap ties are run through the holes as the other side is set. There are plastic cones on the ties that hold the inside of the forms. The ties stick out of the outside of the forms...

As noted, it doesn't matter. Generally speaking, black is L1 and red is L2 but it works just fine either way.

It'll work and most likely be safe but it's not the right way to do it. The shore power has a neutral-ground bond. Since shore power doesn't always exist, the neutral-ground bond doesn't always exist therefore, the inverter needs to have a neutral-ground bond. If only the hot is switched then...

Very well stated. This is why I use the shallowest sockets that'll fit. I've seen too many corners rounded off by using deep sockets and no counterforce on the ratchet.

I would specify basic gable trusses for the ends. No need to frame under them and the wall bears the load, not the truss.

It doesn't get much better than that!

I've seen these used to power stuff like burglar alarms, phone amplifiers, intercoms and other low voltage stuff. They usually look like they're overheating but it's just cheap plastic discoloring due to normal heat and age.

True, that! When doing something like closing in a cutout, you learn to not waste a bunch of time..........

Working hot 120KV in a bucket truck is a ton of fun too.......

Welcome from western Nevada.

I think that if the vast majority of Goers had a shop that was 1,000 X 2,000', in less than a year, we'd be griping because it's not big enough.........lol. In your case, 40 X 60 would likely be ok but what about future stuff that you'll accumulate? If possible, I'd go 40 X 80 or even 100...