Recent content by MikeC55

I had no issue running my 10-3 and 12-2 romex in the 3/4 conduit. It was only a 5.5' length and straight. If there were any bends, I'm sure that would make things far more difficult. The lift instructions say to use a thermal disconnect if required by local code. I did search a bit to see if...

Yea, I'm the only one using the lift. I ain't gonna worry about it. Got it all hooked up and tested today. Works fine!

I did post a photo of the motor name plate in my previous post. It clearly says 'not thermally protected'. I found these, but would have to use 2 of them to protect both legs. https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Breaker-125-250V-Overload-Protector/dp/B0DHVG1BFD/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I haven't been able to find a single one rated for 30 amps with 4 terminals. I wonder if I could use a 2 terminal on each leg?

Thanks, guys. I think I'm going to run my 10-3 and 12-2 romex through the same 3/4 (straight conduit) to the power disconnect switch box. I have plenty of (sub) panel space, so running a separate 12-2 line to a 20 amp breaker in the panel seems easiest to me. I'll just cap off the white wire...

I was thinking you could buy BX armor and run your own wires in it (like conduit). It doesn't appears it sells like that. I guess I could use conduit. It's a straight shot from ceiling to post. Just saw your post, Stuart. Thanks, that would be easier.

The walls and ceiling will be insulated, so I plan to run the 10-3 romex to a box directly above the power unit post (the motor/fluid reservoir mounts on the post). Then I'm thinking BX type armored cable from ceiling box to emergency disconnect switch. I know you shouldn't run romex inside...

Yes, single phase. I will forego the outlet. A short extension cord will do.

I have to provide the power disconnect switch. I did buy a double pole, 30 amp rated switch for that. Here's a related question; since I'm running 10-3 anyway and will have a power disconnect switch mounted on the lift column, is there any reason I can't/shouldn't put a GFI outlet in that same...

I'll get a photo of the motor tomorrow, but here's the wiring diagram in manual. I expect the motor will show 208-230 VAC. I guess I've always been wiring dryers and ovens, etc. and not motors. I guess I spent a little more on copper than I needed to. Thanks, guys.

I'm getting ready to start wiring install for my new lift. It needs 240 V / 25 amp and I've got my 10-3 romex and 25 amp double breaker. However, I just discovered that the hydraulic pump motor has only a black, white and bare (ground) wires. Does this mean it does not require a neutral wire...

Unless you have a pretty steeply pitched roof, and/or large rafters (2 x 12, etc.), drilling holes in the wall header may be pretty difficult, especially if the ceiling is already in place. Access will be a real pain. I'd much rather drill holes in wall and deal with a little drywall patching.

I've had some delays in the schedule and haven't purchased yet.

Agreed. I believe there are situations where stealth remodeling is worth the risk.

I understand, if it is made to order, even if to some standard dimensions, it's still considered a 'custom' order. They're not simply stacked up in a warehouse waiting for a buyer. So far as the inserts, it would seems he needs to verify that his local building department will accept the...