Recent content by Mister68

I used stainless steel tubing and Swagelok fittings. Not cheap but no leaks and modifications are easy.

I use Anderol Royce 44 anti-seize compound in gas turbine maintenance with good results. I also use it on my personal projects as well. The only issue is that this stuff makes the tin man look like Mr. Clean😁.

I strive for a professional finish in my projects whether for home or at work. I know my skill level and my approach is ”If you do it yourself and it looks like you did it yourself then don’t do it yourself”. For me this applies usually to bodywork and drywall finishing.

They’re 15” radius but that really doesn’t matter much. I just cut the existing track 90 at the mid point and added the straight section between.

I raised my opener and tracks for more clearance for my lift. Here’s a link to an old thread on this subject: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/garage-door-opener-with-car-lift.236236/

Had the same issue when our bathroom was painted with Benjamin Moore Aura paint. Apparently our painter has the same issue with a number of customers using the same paint. A recoat with a different paint brand resolved the problem.

If you’re referring to the gap between the door face and the seal. I started with a gap of roughly 3/4” then installed the seals. The track wall brackets are slotted so adjusting was easy enough to do. I adjusted the track to have the door just rest against the seals when closed.

The seals in the photos are 17 years old and obviously intact. No abrasion damage to the front face of the doors panels either.

One more photo of the seal installation.

What you're seeing at the edge of the stucco is a galvanized channel to give the stucco support at the edge. As the photos show the seal is mounted to same surface the door track mounting brackets are. The seals are the same type usually installed on the exterior of most doors.

I’ve got the same setup and didn‘t want the seals attached to the stucco. My seals are mounted to the inside face of the door frame.

Do what I did, find the deepest point in the puddle and drill a 1/2” hole through the slab. Snow melt won’t amount to much water anyway.

Installing a kill switch right on the lift is the way go. I installed mine 7 years ago after I read a post describing the same problem, switch contacts welding themselves closed.

Unless you’re washing your cars inside your garage the quickest and cheapest solution would be to find the deepest point in the standing water and drill down through the slab. I had the same issue in my garage with snow melting off my vehicles and it worked fine. The low volume of slow...

Good deal, count me in.