Recent content by mkef

I've done it. I adjusted my depth so the nail didnt blow through the board though. Just hold it and the same angle, add more nails if your super worried. I had to do it on some floor repair when my wife uncovered wood floors under the carpet, super fun haha

There is, new tracks are thinner and the support angle isnt as solid as it used to be. I've had to center drop some 12' high doors because the tracks were twisting enough to rub the sections.

I use a 3/8 bolt at the hole in the back of the track with the threads facing in, that way if the door travels to far for whatever reason the bolt will keep it from falling out the back. I also use 5/16 carriage bolts where the center drop bolts to the track. You'll have to drill a 3/8 hole though.

We use 2x2 12g punched angle. I prefer to bolt they to purlins with 3/8 bolts and washers. If they are standard lift we center drop them as well. 1 down drop at the rear of the horizontal and 1 in the middle. Your weight guestimation is pretty accurate, if not high. We are doing some 20x20...

Is the door going to be 3" thick? It will deffinatly hold up better long term but springs will cost more down the road.

I've done several. Not sure of costs as I'm not a salesman but I know the work side of it. It's kind of a pain and they dont use typical locks. You do need an interlock so the garage door doesnt operate when the pass door isnt closed. Once in and adjusted, they serve their purpose but dont...

May have to put a resistor in there as a jumper. Modern stuff is ussually 10k ohms resistance in the safety circuit. Not all sensors work with all brands though. Craftsman is made buy chamberlain so most chamberlain/liftmmaster eyes should work. Genie eyes will not

The biggest problem with extension springs is that either side of the door came move independently of the other side as there isnt a shaft connecting each side. As long as the door runs good I dont see an issue. I would never run one on mine but mine is a p.o.s. Did you mean b980?

Post a picture of your door if you can

Looking at your door, at the very bottom are the bottom fixtures where the cables attach. At the top of that section is a hinge, should be #1. At the top of the next section should be #2. If your door is 12' high you should have a #5 hinge below the adjustable top fixture.

I use pipe insulation. Or thicker backer rod. Works great for a temp fix or to help seal a low spot

2 inch rollers or 3"? If 2" they start with #1,#2 etc until you get to the top fixture. Unless it's an overhead brand, their first hinge is #2 then up numerically ussually If 3" rollers they start with #3 hinges then go up. the first hinge is between the bottom and first intermediate section...

Not sure who your installer is or there suppliers but we are 6-8 weeks out on doors depending on what your getting. You may be able to get cheaper basic doors faster from menards or a home center. We just unloaded 115 doors that were ordered in november. Hopefully that's not the case with yours.

Lots of damage from clopay on the commercial side. All still functional and they are good on sending replacement sections, just takes for ever. My biggest gripe is sending half orders. We will get sections and half the track for a job 1 week, 2 weeks later springs and hopefully the rest of the...

We are 8 weeks out minimum. Last I knew, if you wanted windows, good luck