Recent content by ModSquad

Hey guys, I know this has been gone over again and again. I'm not questioning using PEX vs Pex-Al-Pex (the air rated tubing).. I havent been able to get my hands on some small scrap pieces of Pex-Al-Pex to test so I thought I would ask here for those who have some.. Can you crimp on...

well I never got to run the tankless for a long time cause I didn't have enough flow in the system to activate it. I need a bigger pump. From what I could tell when I was flushing the system and noticed it was purged, I turned the breaker on to the heater to see how it would work, and seems...

yup, exactly as he mentioned. the only thing is you need a larger pump.. which Nosman mentioned in an earlier pump. I just don't have the $$ for the pump right now as the pump I have now was free and so was the 50 Gal water heater.. so I just isntalled in for this winter cause it's getting...

it was an instant water heater. the pilot light just indicated that the unit was running or not. just a visual gauge. I still think that these units would be more efficient then a full tank water heater as there is no wasted energy. and you only need the unit connected to either a 20 or 30...

well I got it up and running.. just changed a few things and rerouted some lines and installed a electric tank heater as I already had it and didn't have the funds for a new pump. seems the electric needs a much larger flow to function properly. I'll drain, reinstall and troubleshoot more this...

cool thanks.. that alone might make the difference... your running 3/4" tube which can handle 4GPM which the 1/2" can only handle 1.5GPM. the heater can handle 2.5GPM continuous, but how much flow does it need to activate the switch. hehe.. I'm gonna drop the pressure a bit more tomorrow...

that sounds like a slick unit you got going there. hehe.. unfortunatly I don't have anything like that lying around, but I'm sure i can figure something out. yeah, I was running at 40PSI cause that's what the unit calls for, but after some playing around, dropped the pressure to around...

ok great.. finally I found someone using the same or similar unit. so it would be flow related... What size pump are you using? and at what pressure are you running your system at? Are you using a thermostat to cycle the heater or are you using a relay or something?

Taco 007-f5 pump and a JC1 JCE-55 water heater. Specs on the heater are as follows This uses 220 voltage, 20 - 50 amp and regular 3/8-inch pipe thread connections. It's 11 000 watts power and can deliver 2.5 us gallons of water per minute in continuous flow Suitable water pressure of 40 to 45...

turns out that the pump doesn't have enough flow to activate the water heater..,.

no thermostat yet. pump is turned on with the breaker.. testing.. I was gonna hook up the thermostat after..

k, upon further investigation, the flow meter on the heater is not detecting enough flow to turn the unit on.. now to figure out what's causing that..

so the unit is getting power.. basically it's like it's not getting pressure? system is set to 42PSI. book says it needs between 42 and 45. I checked the connections(hard to explain), but if I manually connect the elements, it heats up fine.. not sure what to think here..

Hey guy's, I know some of you are very familiar with different aspects so I thought I'd throw this out. I got a tankless water heater setup.. it's an electric unit. my problem is I've got my in floor heat all setup and bled, but when I go to turn the unit on, the pilot light doesnt come on...

yeah I know.. I figured it'll run lots to get the slab up to temp, but then after should be ok... it's BTU rating suites the size I have.. and I can run it off 30Amps. Just curious, know of anything I can use to read the draw from this unit without looking at a meter? I do have a 50Gal...