Recent content by MongoTom

Yep, he's the best! :beer:

It's a 4" hose over a 2.5" tailpipe. Nothing but friction holds it onto the pipe and so far, that hasn't been a problem at all.

Yeah, kind of the "hose through the wall" concept, but with a boost. Just ran the Miata up to operating temp without a hiccup. Well, the vent didn't hiccup, but the Miata has an issue and I'd rather solve it in the garage than outside in the 90 degree heat.

Sorry, I've been making this work and haven't checked in for a while. To answer some of the questions raised, my garage floor is 25 X 25 with a 12 foot ceiling. The CO detector is at chest height and I'm planning to get another for the room. So, I used Yeoman's motor, bought a 4" X 11'...

Sounds great. I'll buy Yeoman's wood stove fan and give this a shot. And yes, I already have a CO detector in the room. I can barely drive off my lift without the thing screaming at me, so if this works without that noise, I'll know it's working very well. Thanks again for the input!

My garage is well insulated, heated and even slightly air conditioned. I'm trying to vent auto exhaust in something more than the hose out the door manner. I'm looking at duct booster fans like these http://www.tjernlund.com/Tjernlund_M-Series_Specifications_8506014.pdf mounted to help exhaust...

Thanks, I'll just ignore it. It isn't in the way.

Still working on an old Quincy compressor. I bought a new Condor pressure switch for it and that switch has an unloader attachment. I don't need it as the compressor already has one. The question is, what do I do with the unloader on the pressure switch, cap it or ignore it? Or, is the best way...

Yes, the flywheel is keyed. Thanks to all for the suggestions. I'll start with wedges and move up to the hammer.

I'll look closer, but I'm almost positive the bolt holes are not threaded. Photo later, too.

I've got a nice Quincy QR-25 compressor that needed pretty much everything around it (receiver, motor, belt, switches, etc.). In the process of working on all of this, I used a gear puller to remove the 14" flywheel from the compressor. Well, now that I have the new bits and am putting it all...

Sounds like a plan. Thanks!

Yes, the VFD sales guy said the output can destroy switches and such and said I might need something else. A rotary phase converter? It sounds like I'm getting into more expense. I think a new motor that meets all the size requirements can be had for less than $500. I'll try to determine what...

Change the heaters? Sorry, don't know what that means. I guess the advantage of converting power is that I wouldn't have to change anything like pressure switches and heaters and whatever else. There's some appeal to that. I'm looking for pro's and con's now. Thanks for all the input.

A friend is saying I could use a VFD like he did with his mill. I'm not sure that a compressor motor would work that way due to the large startup energy involved. I would consider moving to a 3 HP with appropriate RPM, if that could be done without harming anything.