Recent content by MooreGarage

Paid a little under $5.00 per square foot for 3500 square feet, about 4 years ago. This was replacing an old gravel driveway so included some grading, compaction and gravel costs. Minimum 3" thick asphalt, ended up over 4" in the area where I park my 9K lb campervan so that was a good thing.

We had the same thing happen with our 60 year old house a few years ago. While they were replacing the line, we had them add manhole access covers like what most modern septic systems have, so that we'd never have to dig up the tank again. We get ours pumped out about every 3 years, and so far...

I love my SCUT (JD 1025R TLB), but I wouldn't use it to mow my yard... I have a lawn tractor for that (JD X500).

I didn't have any problem with this. The torx screws give you really good control so you don't drive them too deep. I just drove them in until flush or ever so slightly indented.

I've rented an auger a few times from HD, no issues. Eventually ended up buying my own PTO driven auger though... much easier to use than the 2-man rental units, and it was cheap enough that 3 uses justified the purchase compared to renting.

When we had our garage built 25ish years ago, the builder offered 3 different options for roof trusses... standard, usable attic, and room-in-the-roof (meaning the space could be finished for habitation). We went with the usable attic option, which beefed up the trusses with 2x6 instead of 2x4...

Also for the overhead stuff, I used a cheap drywall lift from Amazon, worked great. I was able to do it all without any assistance.

I used these Torx screws (in the 2" size): https://www.homedepot.com/p/DECKMATE-9-x-2-1-2-in-Tan-Torx-Flat-Head-Wood-Deck-Screw-5-lbs-435-Piece-115981/306587128 Spaced at 12" intervals. A quick dab of caulk over the screw heads before painting, and you can only find the screws when you are...

This is what I used. And I raised it up about 6" off the floor to eliminate concerns about moisture. My garage also has issues with condensation on the floor (although way less now that the garage is insulated), and also I wanted to use 8' boards with slightly over 9' ceilings. So I made the 8'...

They look very similar, but the Smartside is a newer and better product. Mainly better water resistance (it won't delaminate like T1-11 does if it gets wet), also better insect and sun resistance. Comes pre-primed so paint goes on very nicely.

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Depending on how many panels you need, an option might be to use Smartside panels instead of OSB. I went this route in my garage. It was about triple the price per panel over OSB, but so much less work than drywall. The panels overlap at the edges for a seamless look, and on the ceiling, I used...

I've installed both types before, and I'd much rather do a jackshaft, especially if you already have an electrical outlet close enough for it. I had to run an outlet for it, but that was pretty easy since there was good access in the attic. Other than that, the actual install was really easy.

Jack shaft openers are easier to install than the overhead ones, so I don't understand why the labor cost would be higher. I did mine by myself in a few hours (mine is the Genie, but they all work on the same principle), going slow and making sure I followed all the instructions to the letter.

Our garage has two 8' doors, the Genie screw drive openers were installed when the garage was built 22 years ago. One of them finally died about 2 months ago, and I replaced it with a Genie jackshaft opener. Loving the jackshaft opener so far. It was much easier to install than an overhead...