Recent content by mr48chev

In my days of earning a living working as a mechanic in independent shops, tire stores and dealerships I bought a lot of tools including my snap on box that I still have 50 years later from the tool truck (s). Some lady commented to my wife at one time about my buying tools and my wife replied...

I changed a lot of tires on one of those back when I worked for Firestone years ago. Pretty much the standard of the industry then.

As a former mechanic in independent, chain tire store , auto dealer and a truck leasing outfit I am going to say buy the best quality tools you can afford. Some guys who haven't worked as a wrench professionally might not think it matters but after you get out of school and start in that first...

I'd say part of it is that when they are build something they reach for a new board out of the stack all too often rather than stack the cut off's and use them up. That is a habit a lot of construction and fabricators have. I'd do as the others suggested. sort the boards out and neatly...

I'd do just what SBerry suggested. I don't think you need a huge trench to put the pipe in to get to the tank though. If you haven't looked into it there is all kinds of info on the net showing how to set the system up properly. In most states and counties you can download the county...

I'd go with the locking door or gate at the bottom of the stairs. Lock it and forget it except when you are working up there or taking something up to or down from there.

Going on the 32ft side lets you have three 10 ft side by side stalls or work areas. The other way you have two 13+ ft side by side stalls and probably 12 ft in front of them as a work area. I'd draw some layouts of the work area you expect and see what seems to work out the best for you...

A friend of mine did that when he modified a couple of trusses in his shop to put a two post in. It's actually boxed in and the vehicle is raised up into the box between the other rafters.

You could make a cradle that bolted to the trans jack that 58Yeoman suggested that would safely hold your engine and transaxle without a lot of hassle as long as you figured out how to keep the balance point centered. It doesn't have to be elaborate it just has to be safe. Another thought is...

Well done, that really gives one shop envy. I was measuring the space I currently have to work with last night in preparation for starting on a pole building. It won't be anywhere close to that size though. 24 x 32 is the space I currently have to work with.

Unless you have exposed plumbing in the head in the garage it will take removing a section of wall and plumbing both the fresh water line and the drain line and that may be a bigger pain than doing the actual plumbing.

Cool story and a nifty vintage drill press to boot. Not sure what the weather was there today as my niece didn't mention it but having lived in Central Texas for 8 years back in the 70's 35 Degrees in Central Texas = 10 degrees in Minnesota or Washington State.

A vintage but good thread. I have had this one for probably 30 years and did a lot of improving in it about 15 years ago. The I beam is aluminum and the legs are tube steel all military surplus. It is reasonably easy to slide around the yard as it has no wheels on it. Two people can lay it...

One solution if you have room is to make a table top that sets right on top of the saw with the blade down and guide removed that turns it into a work table in the same spot you use it in. I like the idea of the storage cabinets/shelves that you can roll the saw under easily and be done with it...

I'd think that would depend on the size of the holes in the wire but standing or laying in poop and pee isn't the best thing for them either. I'd think being on screen would be more desirable than that. ATC there should be rabbit hutch plans on line in a number of places. I'd think that...