Recent content by N969DP

To me 50’ deep is ideal for a daily driver in the front and a project in the back with enough room to actually work on it. I went as big as I could at 27’ wide by 42’ deep and while it does just barely fit 2 trucks bumper to bumper or have room for a project in the back it’s still not ideal...

That’s why the the garage is so deep. For an airplane workshop in the back. As for which model next I haven’t fully committed yet.

Here’s an empty house tour video of our new construction house designed around the largest garage I could fit in a 50’x55’ building pad on a 65’x125’ city lot. The garage is 27’x42’ the house attached is 2400sqft 4bed 3bath. After the first month of living in it we are very happy how it all...

After more thought I just bought a 50K btu unit heater and will do a mini split if we decide we still want A/C later. It just wasn’t worth the hassle for drains. As for insulation it’s R19 in exterior walls and door with R50 in the ceiling. Should work good for the 27’x42’ attached garage...

If you don’t know how to do electrical work of course don’t. But it’s really pretty simple stuff.

I don’t get why people are worried about back feeding through the shop power supply to the main house panel. As long as the wires are rated for what you want to send back through and turn off the main house breaker along with any excess breakers you don’t want to run it will work just fine...

And yes I meant drain stack that vents out the roof. If I put the system in the attic. If I get A/C I’d want a 90%+ furnace since I’d have to deal with condensate anyway.

The house is in Minnesota. Any drain through the wall would freeze unless heat tape or something like it was used to keep it warm. That could he an option but still not ideal

I want quiet heat in the garage and the Mrs wants A/C when it’s really hot to make more use of the space. That makes me want to install a normal house furnace and A/C for just the garage. There’s not currently a drain I can run the condensate pipes to. What’s the best realistic option...

Have you considered pole framed style construction? I just don’t believe concrete would be cheaper than that even with todays inflated prices. Even if concrete was cheaper I’d personally still rather have wood walls for less condensation and more comfort during the winter. But I don’t like...

I’m hanging a normal 80% house style furnace with 10+ feet of ductwork from the ceiling in my garage. Mainly for a quieter heat source than a unit heater, but I can see adding A/C in the future as a real possibility. It was a real pain to source good quality venting parts. Nobody wants to...

When pricing out our new construction house. It was $41/sqft to make the garage bigger. That was December 2020 pricing. I wouldn’t be surprised if today it was closer to $65+/sqft in addition to whatever they are charging for a new construction house today.

Currently a zenith kit plane. The next one will either be a bearhawk or a Vans RV15

Since this post got brought back up. I have since decided to go with a 60K 80% house furnace with 10’ish of ductwork mounted up at the ceiling for hopefully a quieter forced air option than a unit heater. The house is still under construction and when it’s done and with some time in there I...

These look like a good choice for me. https://www.1000bulbs.com/fil/products/219696 With these bulbs since I like 5000K for the garage https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/208563/LEDT-10075.html