Recent content by newbomb

I got my boiler installed. Now I am working over the temperature monitoring. Note that I am still NOT insulated, but this shows how the slab heat is working. It would also be more instructive if I had the outside temperature. I will add that in time. Here is a daily graph, followed by a weekly...

I have a whole series of pics on this shop build. When I get time, I will post them all. I am also a big home-automation guy. This is transferring to 'shop-automation'. I will get more data posted here in time.

This is a Thermolec B-9TMB, 30 K BTU/Hr. I had to run 6/2 NM (Romex), because it requires a 50 A breaker. 80' of that was not cheap. It also requires a separate 10 A line for the circ pump. I had a bunch of 20 A laying around, so I used that. 50 A breaker on the main panel, but there is also a...

Was there proper air removal in those systems? And how old were they? After checking the install instructions for this exact model (ex-15) there is a specific statement that says there is no requirement to mount it at the bottom of an air purger. Now, hanging it down should result in better air...

I understand how one would see this as an air trap, but the Amtrol instructions specify only vertical (not horizontal). I am willing to bet that any trapped air will be resorbed. Given the pressure, if one were to take the time and go through the chemistry calculations, I expect trapped air is...

Yes. You can dial them in pretty accurately. Here is a picture much earlier in the process.

Here is a pic of my radiant boiler install done last week. 1200 sf shop, 9 kW boiler, 5 zones. Controlled with Crestron TSTAT and slab probe so I can set min/max slab temp and air temp.

Getting a little off-subject, but both quotes I got from reputable contractors did not consider using a line pump for this project. One said it would raise the quote about $700, and it is workable to wheel-barrow on a completed structure (30x40). Problem is reaching the corners of an already...

Agreed that 1" EPS is cheaper, and I could still use that with little work. This shop has the exterior completed. Common practice for pole buildings (at least here) is to put the slab in afterwards. However, the concrete contractor said pouring on 1" EPS is bad news. The foam breaks up...

Kevin, thank you for the information! You are in Portland, about 15 miles from me. Reading this information would suggest that moving from r5 to r10 under the slab would provide me very little benefit. I do not intend to heat to room temp. It appears you're doing the same. Because of slab edge...

Thanks for the information on the the thermal break at the OHD's. I think I will install another mud girt, and 45 the edge as described. Back to the 3/4" vs 2" foam though... Remember my plan here. I am just looking to keep the slab up to about 50* during the coldest two months. Those months...

Nice! I am in Northeast Vancouver, near Salmon Creek.

What is this dividing material are you talking about? That was one of my original questions. The other issue was how to reinforce the small (6"x4") section that is left over? I am not putting a pad in that extends beyond the outer edge of the building.

IHI, Yikes. I like that idea, but my shop is complete. I cannot re-excavate that outer edge to put that 2" foam down. I will think about that though. See other reply...

I know some think that 3/4" is not sufficient for slab insulation. FWIW, the average low in the coldest month here (December) is 32. We have about 20-30 days per year where it freezes. I haven't seen anything much below 20*, and that lasts a day or two max. In addition, I have special local...