For the one deep-hole application I encountered (a snap ring in a GM AC compressor clutch), there was a special tool designed and sold to remove it. It was probably the same tool used for OEM assembly.
I have a vintage SpeedMike with a similar mechanical display mechanism. It still works, but I don't use it hard. Like so many older companies, J. T. Slocomb has ceased operations. There is likely to be service information somewhere online. Perhaps query Practical Machinist.
As has been mentioned, I'd wager the hammer was made by a machinist working at the Weatherhead plant, using a length of bar stock intended for their fittings.
I have a Black and Decker "Bulldog" 1/2" impact wrench of similar design. I purchased it in 1985. One nice feature is a rocker switch trigger, for rapid changes of forward and reverse direction.
I've seen some impressive engineering in older power tools. I think there was less pressure to hit a price point, at the expense of durability or serviceability. Of course, the cost of those tools was quite high compared to today, in inflation-adjusted dollars.
In my experience, drop mallets are used in tight places and in situations where precise, controlled force is needed. You'll typically see them in cabinet shops and facilities performing precision machine assembly. They can provide just the amount of impact needed, without the risk of marred...
For worm drive clamps, I prefer the lined type that won't allow rubber from the hose to extrude through the pierced holes, or the Norma style with formed (not pierced) bands. I also try to buy all-stainless ones. I don't like the look of rusty worm screws. One real pet peeve of mine are clamps...
The A-1492 drawing is interesting. It shows that a fully-fluted wrench conforms to the "optional construction" in the lower right quadrant. I suspect it was easier in practice to roll-form the flutes in long lengths rather than form the feature on just the ends. The stock could then be cut and...
Steel_Rain, in my experience, SK was typically sold in hardware stores. I don't remember seeing it used industrially, at least not at the plants where I worked.
The knurling on the Ko-ken tools is about as perfect as it's humanly possible to make it. As I've heard before, "VERY IMPRESSIVE!" So many other manufacturers fail at this.
I can't tell from the picture, but it looks like you can get a 1/4" drive Turbosocket on it (sufficient clearance above the offending screw). Turbosockets, combined with heat, have worked well for me in similar situations. They grip tightly enough to shear the head off. I bought a 22 piece set...