Recent content by Nick Danger

I don't know what you want pictures of. Old duct. New duct. The hole in the ceiling is to the old roof cooler. It has been capped and fiberglass insulation put in the shaft. The ceiling has not been installed yet, so I can take pictures of specific sites on request.

Thanks for catching it. I meant to say that, and then typed in the wrong word anyway.

The air return duct has been replaced. The old one was 8"x24". The new one is 10"x30". That's about 50% more cross-sectional area. The noise in the room before was 65 dB. The noise in the room now is the exact same 65 dB. The installer is ready to give up. I talked him into researching...

I just ordered a rebuild kit for my 1970s floor jack. Thursday I finished working on the station wagon, but I couldn't get off the jack stands. That was the moment that the floor jack failed. :mad: Fortunately, my neighbor was outdoors working on his house. I borrowed his jack to get the car...

There are two sounds that cause a problem. There is a whistle. I could tear out the ceiling and look at the ducts. I'd seal all the gaps and that would fix it. Then there is the roaring or rushing noise. It's as loud as having a vacuum cleaner going nonstop in the room with you. I am pretty...

Correction: the plenum will be 12" x 36" and widening to 12" x 50". There will be only one branch duct, which will be about two feet of flex tube. The other four registers and the furnace will attach directly to the plenum.

Right now, the air return is 8"x12" ductwork (or something like that). That will all be removed, and replaced with a 12" x 36" (or a 12" x 40") plenum. There is nothing that can be done with the supply air. It's tubes embedded in the concrete slab.

Update: I bought a cheap decibel meter. The house is normally about 45 dB, and the HVAC air movement raises it to about 65 dB. That's a big difference. The whistle has gotten worse than it was in the days after they applied the mastic. The company gave me an estimate yesterday for removing...

The two feet of duct closest to the air return inlets has been sealed. I removed all the covers with the louvers. It's somewhat quieter, and the whine is reduced. So I was wrong about the whine being mechanical, and the whine is caused by leaky ductwork.

My plan is to see what the HVAC company will do as a remedy. I've already removed the grilles in covering the air return ductwork. I don't know what the company is planning as a replacement. They are located at the top of the wall. The ducts are above the drop ceiling above a fifteen foot...

Maybe, maybe not. I don't know how ducting is supposed to be done. But yesterday I looked at another place in the duct and I could have fit my thumb into the gap between two pieces of metal. It may be that all the work is substandard. And they charged me a bunch for it. There used to be an...

The owner has come and gone. He said that the air return registers are designed for air supply, and the louvers are causing restriction. He reduced the max airflow from 1300 cfm to 1070 cfm. He says that the airflow noise sounds normal to him. I pulled off the return registers to see if that...

The return looks like 8 inch flexible tubing. The longest distance is about ten feet.

The whine can be heard from within the unit itself. I think it's mechanical. There was a whistle from the filter door, but I fixed that while the installer was still here with 1/8" weather strip foam.

The thermostat is an Ecobee Smart Premium. The manual says that it can control up to two stages. The blower does run at a lower speed. I have it set to run for 5 minutes at the top of each hour, and that isn't too bad. But it gets too enthusiastic. Is it true that all blower motors make a...