Recent content by NWPete

I have the room in front of the beam for the motor but with the minimum required arm bar length to close the door all the way, I don't have enough room so the door opens up only 3/4 the way up. That's why I'm running it behind the beam through the cavity.

Thanks for the suggestion. If I can split the cavity and install the drywall so the wires go behind it, I will. Hopefully those wires will be much higher than 2 inches from the bottom. Otherwise, I'll get those fire rated tubes to enclose the wires as the secondary option.

Great. I found some fire retardant split wire looms on Amazon for automobiles and machineries that heat up.

Thanks. Yes, I'll be sure to drywall both ends of the cavity as well. There may be some wires through pilot holes being exposed too. I can install split wire tubing around those wires. Sounds like a plan.

It is possible. I haven't opened up the wall but seems clear of any studs. There is an electrical panel 3 ft below so not sure if there will be obstacles. I'll have to install a receptacle in that area too. Maybe I'll explore my other idea first before I'm forced to explore this option...

Thank you. I can use 5/8-inch Type X.

I don't have the budget to change out the entire garage door to another style just so I can open it electronically. It's pretty much either I do it the way I mentioned in the picture above or not install a garage door opener at all. If anyone wants to comment on the picture above and point out...

Yes, so this is what I mean. In the below pic that I drew, I can drywall the cavity making sure all gaps are sealed. The motor/rail can go all the way up if necessary. If there are any problems with doing this, I'm curious to know. Wouldn't want to get called out by an inspector if I sell the...

Here it is. I only have about 5 inches from the end of the torsion bar to the wall. The other side has almost none.

Interesting. Looking at a youtube video and the specs, I don't think it will work. Same issue. I don't have enough distance between the beam and the door. With the arm bar length plus the length of the operator, my garage door wouldn't open all the way up. I gotta somehow get past that beam.

If I install the motor below the beam, the track will be below the garage door so it wouldn't work.

I suppose I could also install drywall inside the joist cavity area directly on wood.. What do you think about that?

There is no furnace or water heater in that garage though. They are in a room next to it. There is however the main electrical panel in the garage. Isn't not having a drywall ceiling in the lower space kind of like having an unfinished basement though? The garage is in my half basement.

Yes I considered the liftmaster. I don't have the required space between the side of the garage door and the wall unfortunately...

I have a very challenging garage with a ceiling beam in the middle only 8ft away from the garage door. If I install my motor in front of the beam, the door doesn't open all the way up. My joists run perpendicular all the way to the door so I thought why not open up the drywall in that portion...