Recent content by osumet

Would you make it one piece for structural reasons?

I think I’d prefer to construct it the way that I have it modeled just to keep it simple. It seems to be more work to try to make the end/rim joist one piece and I just don’t see any advantage. Not saying that it wouldn’t be better to make it one piece, I just haven’t found a good reason yet...

A few facts about my shed build... Foundation: 6"x6" posts buried 36" deep. Max span between posts is 6' with a total of 12 posts. Posts will sit on 4" of gravel and set in concrete. Top of posts will be notched and bolted to rim joists. Rim Joists are doubled up 2"x10". Metal joist hangers...

Grizzly makes a track saw that’s less expensive than the brands you’ve mentioned. I’ve been wanting a track saw for years. I tried using a standard circular saw and a straight edge but the cut was poor. The problem with a standard circular saw is that the bases aren’t rigidly secured to the saw...

I just purchased a series 2 44” chest in blue. They gave me item number 64445. The chest had a lot of damage so I ended up returning and getting another chest that was item number 64444. Here are the differences I noticed between the two item numbers. Item number 64445: - Did not have the...

I just purchased a series 2 44” chest in blue. They gave me item number 64445. The chest had a lot of damage so I ended up returning and getting another chest that was item number 64444. Here are the differences I noticed between the two item numbers. Item number 64445: - Did not have the...

I’ve got a QT-5 that’s at least 15 years old. It’s a pretty loud compressor and has a knocking sound that seems to be similar to what you’re describing.

I just moved and am looking for a new heater for my larger attached garage/woodworking shop. I used an oil filled convection heater in my previous garage and it did a great job of heating that garage. My current heater is 1,500 watts (see attached picture). What I'd like to find is a slightly...

I'll call tomorrow and ask for the code paragraph. I don't see he could require that I redo the panel either. It just doesn't make sense. According to the following website (at bottom of list), Oklahoma has adopted the 2014 NEC and the amendments/modifications are out to the right side...

OK, I called the county permit office and was told that it was against code to use aluminum wire in a house, including in the attic. My house was built in '83 and has copper wire installed throughout. The main panel is in a closet in a bedroom and is on an outside wall. The county permit office...

I've got another question. The main panel is on the other end of the house from the garage. I'm planning on running the 2-2-2-4 SER cable out of the top of the main panel, up the inside of the wall, through the top plate, into the attic, run about 75 ft across the attic and down to the sub panel...

Are you referring to the location as shown by the pink square in the attached picture? I do think that'd be a good location. I'm thinking about that location or the two locations shown in yellow in the attached picture. Looks like installing the panel in the closet will not be an option since...

I'm going to be moving the well pump or water heater or both to the sub panel. I'll also be running a air compressor that requires a 60A circuit, a table saw that requires a 30A circuit, a planer that requires 20A, etc. It's likely that I'll have 3 or 5 horsepower dust collector at some point...

Yes, There's a 30A 240V circuit for the water heater and a 20A 240V circuit for the well pump that are both in the garage. The main panel is in a bedroom closet on the opposite end of the house from the garage.

The pics below shows the main c/b panel inside my house. I'm wanting to add a 100 amp sub panel in my attached garage. Does anyone have a recommendation on the best way to rearrange the circuits in my main panel to open up two adjacent slots?