Recent content by OX1

Two more things I will toss out there that I've stumbled on (sorry, they are both 40mm shaft). If you want your wheel mounted almost exactly like it does on a hubcentric car, these are self adjusting, hubcentric "cones" (but not angled like a normal cone). I got two that have the ranges for...

I originally had mine on two small dolly's (not bolted down at all). It almost killed me one day, getting aggressive trying to move it. Only thing saved me was the "project" I had on the two post. When I made the steel mounts, I made the one on the "fat" end, especially long. :) Oh, and just...

Adjustment on the locks for using lift with an alignment system is 100 times easier, than shimming towers. You can put level on cross bar/runways and literally adjust lock plates until perfect, side to side, front to rear. I guess eventually, you could shim towers well enough, but when you are...

Oh , and since I'm post whoring. One option on lack of space for tire machine's is build a wheel kit. I used 1/4 wall angle iron on my old machine (and 2" square 1/4 wall on my new Corghi). Need to build platform for using bead breaker after lifting machine. But this allows you to push...

One final thing I will offer up is low profile cones. Again, some newer wheels have very little depth. This "low" profile cone set came with my used RF machine. Has been helpful on many newer wheels. Not sure on cost, but most of this equipment is ridiculous money, on average. EDIT. I lied, one...

Glad to hear the rim clamp is working good for you. My Atlas is pushing 25 years old now, so maybe the newer machines have larger rams for rim clamp, holding better than my older machine. Another issue for me early on, was the plastic inserts would break when releasing the clamps and the tire...

Holding wheel on a tire machine uses a cone with plastic insert. It only touches the very center of hole where center cap typically goes. I have only had one issue using that method. It was older 80's wheels that had been professionally powder coated. Developed some very minor cracks in powder...

I recently got the hunter adjustable "pin" plate $$$, as I acquired a newer GT500 for track days that has CF wheels. Have had no issues using it with back cones for centering, with pin plate only providing force to hold on wheel. I also use it on my tire machine. It also helps with some...

Understood. But you cannot adjust, JUST the lock height(s), in relation to the towers. (like globally raising/lowering, upwards of 2 inch, usually)

If your doing any kind of "nice" rims, I wouldn't do rim clamp. You either have "knubs' that dig into inside of rim or you have to use plastic covers that hold lower edge of rim, which sometimes slip with harder to install tires (and sometimes if it slips far enough, you trash a TPMS). Also...

Some higher end 4 posts that are not C-Channel, have no adjustment when on the locks. Holes are cut in the towers and are not movable.

Problem with strings on the ground with some cars, especially rear camber. If the adjustment is a slot, as soon as you loosen bolt, weight of vehicle forces camber negative (usually) and you need long pry bar to force it back (which you don't have space, if you are on the ground/jack stands)...

Put up a pic of it or at least a link........

Also storage on a 4 post. I have very tall 4 post with F250 underneath, 59 bird way up top, and can still open 10 X 10 door that snakes up over bird. Not possible with 12' wall I'd guess. And one final reason. I wanted natural light, so I had 4 foot high plastic panel across both eave sides...

Don't know yet. Still plowing street and driveways (paved) on my block. It is a bit tough to get on/off, figure I'll put it on last to do stone part of driveway. Still snowing for 3 more hours. Will make one more pass after that, then maybe try it out.