Recent content by parris001

So I'm looking for a special disassembly tool for a Shimano 333 three speed rear hub. It's a TL-3S20 Shimano part number. Lemme know if you have one or a lead on one.

I've got a set of old vintage Blue Point shorty step feeler gauges. The current offering is FB308D. But, the feeler gauges are too long. I bought my old set back in the late 80s. I have a few missing and would probably just replace the whole set. I can't find them short enough currently in...

How much actual grease do you think gets put inside a tool like this these days?

I used to throw mine in the parts solvent vat. Rinse all the grime away. Then blow it off before pulling the switch again, that stuff is flammable.

Put some Dan+Shay posters up under there. That'll run anything out from under there

Explain this last part. I think I've got the whole of your argument except for this

Same type washer but a smaller diameter because it was proportional in size to the 12 point head.

A lot of "unimportant" bolts in an engine aren't torque to yield (or to the maximum the bolt can physically take) because they maybe hold on the water pump. And too much would squeeze the gasket out. Or a bolt may thread into aluminum and you'd pull the threads out. Or the bolted on part might...

I do agree that bolt stretch is ultimately what we are trying to achieve. We had an instructor here come up with an exercise where he threaded a bolt into a steel billet, where just a couple threads of the bolt protruded out the back side of the billet. And he machined flat the bit of bolt...

Well, it was main bearing bolts that we were talking about. The reason this was always an issue is that lazier mechanics would always torque their main cap bolts to the lesser value because it was, obviously, easier to do. They would say, "don't matter the head size" and take the easy route. I'm...

I think you've nailed it. I reached out to a friend I consider to be one of the greatest mechanical minds out there. He said he thought the clamping force under the head of the larger bolt took less than the smaller. Basically, it's a pounds per square inch thing. Smaller surface area is going...

That's exactly the same argument I made with the other instructor. Evidently great minds think alike. I gave the jar analogy of with just your bare hand and no wrench to measure the torque needed to remove the lid, the lid of a larger outside diameter will take less effort to remove than a lid...

Note that it's not actually a 3/4" bolt and a 15/16" bolt we're talking about here. The bolt is kinda an oddball. It's an 11/16"-11. Won't find that in the bin at Home Depot. I guess that old thread had been used way back since the inception of the V-71 Series.

While not cheap, have you considered retractable awnings like RVs use? I worked in the Prevost world for some years and I was able to snag a large air operated Zip-Dee awning that was being discarded off of an XL motorhome that had been totaled out. I installed it on the west side of my house at...

So the instructor I was having the conversation with was saying that the area of the underside of the bolt was the difference in the two torque values. And I had that lightbulb moment where I thought, dang. I bet that's it! Then I shot that down when I realized the bolt with the smaller contact...