Recent content by premis

I have an 1,800 sq ft garage. It is insulated (R-19 walls, R-50 ceiling R-13 garage doors) and has a heated floor. I'm considering adding a mini-split for more summer comfort but I'm not sure I can get on that is big enough. The garage is "L" shaped, but I really only care about cooling the...

Thanks, @PoorUB! I appreciate the help. I'll skip the mixing valve. Believe it or not, I've installed about a dozen of these systems, I was the HVAC "*****" while I was in High School and College (20 years ago). And I helped my dad install the system in his 1,000 sq ft shop. But I've never had...

Ok, I trust you. I'll skip the mixing valve. My garages (2 zones, one 420 sq ft and one 1800 sq ft) are just bare concrete. But the basement zone (1905 sq ft) is going to be mostly carpet but also a tile bathroom and an exercise room with a rubber floor. Knowing that, is still ok to just use...

I'm going to do a pump for each zone. I think I'll add a mixing valve but use valves to isolate it if I don't need it. Just how this panel is done. That way it's there if I want it but I can bypass it if I don't...

I appreciate all the help, and I have no doubt that the way you are telling me to do it is the best way. But, it's over my head and removes the ability for me to DIY this. I'm going to look for a smaller boiler, probably something 100-120K BTU and I'm going to put a mixing valve on to feed my...

I don't plan to use the DWH part of the combi-boiler but it seems like every boiler I find is a combi-boiler so I figured I'd just get one of those and not use the DWH part. If I could find a heat-only boiler I'd be all for it. I know I want condensing and something efficient, all those seem to...

Supposedly this Dowtherm SR-1 Ethylene Glycol is "inhibited" to prevent corrosion https://goglycolpros.com/pages/inhibited-vs-uninhibited-glycol

I'm not going to, I'm using a 35% mix of ethylene glycol from these guys https://goglycolpros.com/products/dowtherm-sr1-antifreeze-55-gallon-drum?variant=32592635953290 I considered Propylene Glycol but it's twice the cost and not as efficient. This will be a closed-loop system with no contact...

It looks like the curve is preset. He just moved into his house this fall. We haven't had cold enough temps for him to really test his. I think I'm going to go with the 140K BTU model. I know I won't need all that all the time, but I'd rather oversize it slightly than undersize it at all...

It does have an outdoor reset. It's referenced in the tech specs. https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/media/HTPIN001/Prod_Tech_Spec/wbrctechspec.pdf

I'm trying to be conservative with my calc mostly due to the large garage I'm trying to heat, I figure those big garage doors can be leaky and the insulation in the garage is not as good as the house (foam batting in the wall and R-30 in the attic). A friend of mine just built a 2,200 sq ft...

I'm planning on this condensing natural gas boiler, or maybe the 140K BTU version. It is a combi boiler but I have no intention of using it for domestic water. I already have two 50 gallon hot water heaters. I also plan to use Ethylene glycol in the floor so I want to keep this system COMPLETELY...

Shouldn't the air separator and expansion tank go on the suction side of the primary loop pump (the one that just loops in and out of the boiler)? 3 zones (8 loops, 6 loops, and 2 loops for 16 total). Pipe is 1/2". Length of each circuit is between 249' (smallest loop) to 299' (longest loop)...

Thanks, @Kezorm. I'll have to revisit my BTU calculations and try to nail it down a little better. I tend to live by "bigger is better". :D

I'm located in Iowa. The boiler is only for the radiant floors. I'm also planning a 35% Ethylene Glycol mix, which will zap some efficiency. I plan to keep the main garage (1,800 sq ft) between 60-70 degrees. The main garage has two large (18x9) insulated (R-18.4) doors, a side walk-through...