Recent content by Quickstep192

I had never heard of pistol grip pliers before now, but somehow suddenly feel that I need at least one pair!

I’ve never seen the Stanley tool in metric. Given the vintage, that makes sense.

I stumbled on these machine screw cutters and wondered if anyone has them or has tried them. I often find myself shearing small machine screws using the shear in wire stripper/crimping tools, but those tools don’t like stainless screws and only go to #10 These things go to 1/4-20 and there’s...

When you fell the tree, leave about 3’ - 4’ above ground, then use it as a fence post. Once it’s a fence post, it’ll rot away in no time.

Thanks for the ideas. The tool Jack referenced gave me an idea… After biting the bullet and removing the carb for better access, I tightened a keyless chuck onto the stud. I turned it by hand. It made a little clicking sound as it first turned, then came right out. As soon as the new parts...

I use this stuff. Works great. Even removes epoxy resin.

The studs must be hardened, because vise grips don’t seem to grab. Although maybe a newer pair would grab better.

I should have mentioned - the threads are trashed and I don’t have welding gear.

I need to remove a 4mm steel stud from a cast aluminum carburetor. (See pic) I see lots of stud extractors online, but none that small. Any ideas?

I don’t know about you guys, but I have CDO. It’s like OCD, but with the letters in the proper alphabetical order.

Same here. Something about them being all vertical that looks funny to me. Also, I’ve had more than a few times where the plate broke after trying to get from tight to vertical. They really should make them hex drive or Torx drive so they’re not noticeable at all :)

3 ugga duggas is for steel plates. 2 ugga duggas for plastic plates.

My boss used to have a saying: “Neatness is next to bonusness” :) I know guys that insist on making all the screws on a switch plate have the slots facing up and down. I don’t do that because I tighten the screws to a specific torque spec!! :)

One of the cool things about WAGOs is that you can remove them and re-do them if you want to. In my case there was a white wire looping through a pair of black wires and the opportunity to neaten it up couldn’t be resisted. But, getting the tape off was a pain and it didn’t look as pretty. So...

The surface that is exposed after pouring is the back of the casting. It’s the part inside the mold that is exposed after the casting is removed from the mold. I figured getting as much air out before pouring was a good thing. But, I discovered in my most recent pour that vibrating also makes...