Recent content by radmotorworks

Be warned...online classifieds and ebay etc. are a good option for older higher quality stuff (before rebadging became mainstream) than currently on the market or shop-grade at a cut in price but, in my experience, its a winding road. Occasional super-Dave type deals and fun like-minded people...

Plenty of folks who have bought oiless and kissed away what they paid thinking they got a good lowball entry ticket. $400 for a better low end one minus 200 equals $200 savings or just minus $200 when the thing goes junk on you? Not sure if this is a direct drive, if it is, it gives the pump a...

Life expectancy of a drill is definitely a value-for-money concern. Funny how the batts all die out on you and cost almost as much as the drill. My Mikita 8390 works pretty well as a relatively cheap, ok quality, 1/2" chuck, all rounder. Cheaper than Lith with good batts that are not easily...

Some thoughts...its a bummer to run out of air and ****** will not do it for you. Once you get using it, you will find applications that demand more air like sand blasting. Unfortunately, air compressors are highly inefficient at transferring HP from motor to tool--so generally more works...

The 0/5/10-W rating is essentially polymers in the oil that let it pour down a hole at the same rate (same viscosity) even when in frigidair. These ingredients don't do much to lubricate. The advantage of using in cold outside is less startup strain on motor although, since you are not getting...

This topic is long standing, timeless and far reaching... Have to say, I thought about it for a while after finding an old 2 stage brunner and considering replacing my newer single stage 3-cylinder ranger. From what I can tell (i.e, my pet theory...)--CFM is first determined by the...