Recent content by Reflex

Mr. Jayhawk Aviator, Sent you a PM. Thanks, Reflex

I used the Edco 10" propane powered model on a botched floor job. Hard work, but it worked nicely. By the way....with a name like Jayhawk Aviator, any chance you're in Lawrence or northeast, KS?

Outdoor temp this morning = -9 F Indoor shop temp this morning = 63 F Shop size = 42 x 56 Ceiling height = 12' at hip 13' 6" center Type heat = radiant Odd features = 32' door on west side Total calculated heat loss = 39,400 BTU/h Design temp = -10 (75 degree delta) Heat source = A.O. Smith...

A couple of things to check: 1) If you're using a tank type water heater to supply heat, it likely came with a T & P that seeps at 150 psi and blows at 210 degrees. Installing a 30 psi T & P valve may help from a pressure standpoint, it will allow air in your system and water out of your...

Simply put, the idea is to match the burner output to your heat loss. Example: most 40 gallon natural gas water heaters have an input of 40,000 BTU/h (contractor grade). Those basic heaters have a thermal efficiency of roughly 80% (slightly less). So, 40,000 x 80% = 32,000 BTU/h of output...

Please forgive me if this has been covered, I didn't read every post carefully, but the key to your problem is below. The answer isn't too terribly tough, but it has nothing to do with what type of appliance you're using to heat your space. We can argue all day about tankless units for radiant...

The pressure ratings are the same for each, depending on which manufacturer made the tank. The pre-charge pressure varies by manufacturer. Example, Watts potable tanks come with 20 psi in them, A.O. Smith tanks are pre-charged to 29 psi. The air charge varies due to transportation costs...

The difference in an expansion tank for a closed system vs. a potable system is the construction/materials used on the inside of the tank. It has nothing to do with the pressure rating or working pressure. An expansion tank that is used on a potable system has a coating, bag, or some other...

Perhaps this link will shed some light on your issue. :) http://www.bradfordwhite.com/pressure-damaged-water-heaters-115 Best of luck, Reflex

Dogdog, Excellent logic....and your are correct, the top and bottom portions of the tank are manufactured with the same basic shape (not exactly the same). The bottom of the tank is manufactured so that we get greater surface area for improved heat transfer. The top of the tank is shaped this...

Gents, sorry to disagree, not a vacuum....excess pressure. A vacuum would draw the middle of the heater jacket inward forcing the ******* outward (think of squeezing a beer can). Thermal expansion or excess pressure forces the middle of the heater outward which forces the ******* inward. Not...

Flat-Rate, You've received a lot of information here; some good, some not so good. It sounds like the problem with your parents water heater is pressure. A Rheem (State, Smith, Bradford-White, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Reliance, etc.) water heater is made from a steel tank. The tank has a glass...

It is not likely you will find a 50 gallon storage tank. Most manufacturers consider storage tanks to be a commercial item. That is, they are normally seen in a commercial application. For this reason, there is very little demand for small storage tanks (under 80 gallons) when compared to...

Radix2 is correct. The short version is your water heater is undersized. The slag on your burner is a sign of condensation (acidic) eating out the glass lining and steel on the water heater's flue. The slag is glass lining and steel that's coming from your flue. If you have consistent...

John, I don't think you missed anything in my post. I've worked with contractors most of my career and have found most (not all) to be guilty of "drive-by" sizing. That is, they look at the building, use some given BTU per square foot calculation they they think will work and and size...