Recent content by REPO

Thanks for all the help guys! I have it narrowed down to a R10 or R15. But I found that it has a 5HP motor, so i’m thinking it’s a R15 as Tool Tyrant says....

Would anyone here know what brand/model this air compressor would be? there is no identification tag on it anywhere!

Great build!

How/where did you get those done?

The panel could easily be inverted, with the main at the bottom, but my long term plan is to have 2 separate 30 amp recepticals below the panel, so either way it will gave heavy cable coming out of both ends. (I plan a welding plug inside, plus an RV plug outside)

That appears to be option #3. Probably the cheapest, and easiest at this point. Possibly just drill through the overhang and run the cable up past the top of the breaker box, then loop back down into the top of it?

That's true, but the codes are very similar on each side of the border.

Another thing I am considering for sure. Possibly terminate the teck cable at the PVC LB with a weathertight connector, then just continued through the LB with the wires, rather than the jacketed cable. The jacket appears to be the limiting factor when trying to make a bend through the LB.

Holy heck! So you would need a 7" LB then? That seems way overkill! This is starting to look like a good way to go.

If running teck cable that has #2 aluminum wire in it, wouls 2" PVC work ok? I mean can I actually make the teck cable bend the 90 degrees through the 2" LB to get through the wall?

I found this picture on the Airdrie, AB page. Looks like this may work?

I've built a few over the years. If doing transfer cases, etc, I prefer a HEAVY table. Not something that is sliding around, rocking, etc. I make mine sing 4x4 light gauge steel tubing for legs, then weld angle iron to make the framework. I then put 3/4" plywood for the first layer. Then add...

Understood. Does the actual Tek cable jacket need to be terminated at the panel? Or can I just strip the jacket off at the LB and just carry the conductors the remainder of the way? I can easily take the PVC right to the panel.

If using PVC on the outside wall, how do I transition from the Tek cable to the PVC? Or do I just strip off the outer casing at the LB and continue from there?

I test hung my box tonight in the flush position. I still have a full 4" behind it that I can use spray foam to fill. This may be the easiest route for me, as I can bring the service cable up the side wall of my shop and straight into the back of the box. Another question when flush mounting...