Recent content by rhejohnstone

I was told by the truss manufacture (Midwest manufacturing) that it was up to the local building department regarding the gable end truss with scissor details. I am considering using the scissor truss at the gable ends and running continuous 2x6 studs to the gable end truss bottom chord...

Seams to be alot of different opinions, i just want to build it properly from the start and make sure it passes inpection. I was told standard flat gable end would be fine by the county plans examiner. I was told should be balloon framed by the county inpector or replace 2 scissor trusses...

He said to build according to local standards.

I was thinking maybe flat gable 2x8 wall with a tripple top plate?

I'm looking for some input on how to build the gable ends on this 30x48x12 garage with 5/12 scissor . From what I understand it is good practice to balloon frame the gable ends with scissor truss system to avoid a difficult bracing scenario. The framer I have talked to says he likes to build...

The plan was for pea gravel for inside wall backfill and floor area.

Is it standard practice with a sloped natrual grade to use back fill at the low areas to achieve frost protection at 42"? I noticed my rear footers were only at 36" to bottom of footing. Im sure it will be fine but is this correct?

I agree the footer should have been poured level .Just a sloppy job. I work full time, I wish I had taken time off for the pours to make sure everything was where needed to be. I was told to trust the process, should have trusted my gut.

My only concern would be how well the thin spots would hold up and geting a good bond to the wall. Do you thing installing large metal spacers at the anchor bolts and filling around the open areas would be a option? What type of mortar would you suggest?

As much as i would like it to be an option don't think thats gonna happen.

Possibly, the quote i have for cutting is 2800 at approximately 110 feet of cutting with a specialty company. Is this reasonable? Seems high to me.

I've checked multiple times.

I only showed him one mark on the form and it was up to him to do what he is being paid to do and reference that mark around forms with his laser. The other pencil marks were for me to check and make sure we would have enough form for a level wall. The contractor did snap a chalk...

Looking for advice on a stem that was that slopes down 2- 2.5" to rear. The wall forms were marked the night before the pour using a Bosch GLL100-40G and yard stick indicating the top off the wall. I showed 1 of the marks on the morning of the pour to the contractor to let him know this...