Recent content by Rig

I found a couple local guys on Craigslist that work on garage doors for a living, but as independents. They're trained, certified, offer warranties and are VERY reasonable. I recommend seeking out this type of option before checking the yellow pages.

Probably, but I didn't read any great responses in the thread, and decided to add my 2¢

Comb Craigslist and Facebook Market for a used Chamberlain/LiftMaster/Craftsman opener - all the same mfg and completely compatible. You can often find them free or super cheap, and usually still fully assembled. A lot of people get rid of them to get a fancy new MyQ wifi version. Be sure to...

After exhaustive searching, I finally confirmed this run time to be correct. By law, starting in about 2000, all garage door openers are required to have a "30-second clock" to assure the door closed completely in that time. You can override it by holding the button down, but finding a way to...

You can make your own jackshaft version with a standard motor and special chain sprocket. You -can- raise your opener, but you're limited by both garage height and j-hook length. AND if you decide to "trick" the system with a longer j-hook, you may have to extend the rail to get the door all...

No harm, no foul, brother. It seems to be a more sophisticated system than one would expect from the older tech! I will probably give it up soon and bite the bullet with the MyQ (unlimited adjustment) for my purposes.

You can find the older, pre-wifi Chamberlain/LiftMaster/Craftsman (all the same mfg) models on Craigslist and Facebook Market free or very cheap...simple and durable. I don't trust any other brand.

The "windows" are the openings between the tabs/flags on the black cup. The sensor (left) reads what passes thru it. I didn't alter the sensor I removed some tabs to presumably make fewer windows, but it still operated as normal. I removed the cap altogether which caused it to stop after a...

Can you think of any other feature or method that would stop the main drive motor at almost the exact place as the limit switch maximum? All I can add to support the rev counting theory is that it stops without an error, as though it hit the limit switch. No clicks, no lights flashing.

So far, anything disconnected from anything causes it to error out. Because the middle (driven) shuttle stops in about the same place on my extended assembly as it does on the stock assembly, I'd say that's a pretty clear indicator that there's a secondary (equipment) safety in the firmware...

Here are a couple pictures of my modified limit switch assembly. The first shows the extended length (blue lines). The second shows where the shuttle stops every time - right where it *would* limit out with the standard limit switch assembly (red line).

Yes, I have the cover off the motor while testing the modified assembly. I'll see if I can attach a video so everyone truly understands the issue.

The "secondary safety' considered with a rev counter has more to do with equipment damage, like the shuttle "crashing" into the top hard stop or something.

Funny

Here's what I can tell you - - The limit switch contacts are farther apart than standard by approximately 3/4" - The opener still stops approx where the contact max is on the standard limit switch assembly Conclusion - the system "knows" its at the top height of the standard limit switch...