Recent content by rockyballbuster

Agree with other posters - go to a flooring store and get flexible, rubber baseboard and glue it to the wall. It's shaped with a berm at the bottom, to deflect water that hits the wall. I just installed 44 feet, and with glue and the baseboard it came out to about a buck a foot. They will...

Nice work, and great write up. That floor looks like a skating rink!

Thanks PD59, GarageGuy, AlphaGarage and the others that helped me get to this phase. Mr. Pollo can't wait to finish this project, and have my lab, er... I mean "garage" back. BTW, did you check out the epoxy floor in the BB lab? After starting this project, I took note, and was wondering what...

Here it is, clear coat this morning, tried to avoid huffing fumes - dang! All that's left is the rubber wall border, and filling the exp. joints with foam backer and self leveling Sonoguard SL-1. I'm hoping this floor lasts a long time...

Thanks for piping in and 'splainin' the finer points of paint coverage based on logic. I see the proof you point out. Important to mention, "theoretical coverage" is also based on the % solids. The spec sheet lays it out for the dry mil thickness. If 100% solids, at 1 mil, you will get 1604...

The saga continues. Today, I learned the difference between "theoretical coverage rate" and "actual". Apparently, so did the Pittsburgh paint sales rep. Theoretically, the paint should cover 468 s.f./gal (at 5 mil wet thickness). With our project at 820 s.f. you'd think that 3 gals should do...

Talked to the PPG rep. He said scratch it up and go for it, drying time's not an issue even though it's thick. Garageguy, thanks for all your help. That square buff sander sounds like the way to go... more and more as I sand it by hand, whew !! I couldn't find one to rent in my little town...

The Spec sheet application section states: Avoid thick glossy areas of Amerlock Sealer. Roughen these areas prior to topcoating. The "max" time to recoat/topcoat is 1 month. The sheet also states "roughen surface if max recoat/topcoat time is exceeded". This looks kinda glossy to me...

What type of epoxy did you use? Isn't the point of having an epoxy floor to avoid stains from spills of chemicals and paints? Many are used by municipalities because graffiti can be washed off with no loss of appearance. I would get the name of the paint manufacturer and call them. Otherwise...

OK, I've heard several different posts expain the finer details of roughening a finished epoxy coat for the next application. Each stated a different grit. I've seen 50, 60-80, and 100-120. Which is it? Which is the TRUE GRIT? I need to "roughen glossy surfaces" for the next coat...

One more piece of advice. When painting/epoxying a floor, don't vent by leaving the door open just enough.... for the cat to get in.

Here's an update. I had already put the caulk down when I posted this thread, and now wish that I had posted first and NOT put it down at all. The Sonoguard SL-1 came up with the Amerlock Sealer. (interestingly, the Locktite Sealer didn't). That is, when brushing into the corner, the clear...

Thanks pd59, the Pittsburgh paint rep recommended Sonoguard SL1 Polyeurathane Sealer. I used it, but it was self-leveling, and didn't cover the small gap between the stem wall and the slab, but ran all over and made a mess. I cleaned it up with Xylene, and started over using Locktite...

Anyone ever use this below 100 percent solids epoxy? Also, any clue on the drytime before painting. The label doesn't list it.

Edger, thanks for the input. No water, real dry here. The slab is newer, about 1.5 yrs old. I'll give it a shot.