Recent content by saon

I haven't taken any.

that sounds like some pretty good stuff, ill give it a go thanks

my 12 year old tile walls, plastic base and 2 panel glass corner shower is starting to leach water out from the corner brackets that hold the glass to the base by the door. just wondering what is the best silicone or latex to replace it with? going to pull it all apart and reseal everything...

question on finishing a steel roof to a vynal sided wall with no eve or overhang. it's a gable end and opted for no eve. well with the roof on i am questioning on placing the 4" corner cap to the end wall that will be vynal sided. just side it all the way up and over lap the roof corner and...

I understand wanting to do it your self. I try to do everything myself. I dont own 1 either, but the machine shop I spent 25 years working at had one. some things pay for themselves by having it done with the correct equipment. if they are bad, do you plan to replace and size the guides...

most accurate is a dial bore gauge made for checking guides. you clamp two valves in the set up fixture, then adjust yr gauge to match the valve stem thickness and measure yr clearance. sunnen brand is what I have used. other than that, I got nothing else for ya, sorry.

I'm past that stage I guess, I already have the hanging heaters up and running a few years now. and I already purchased the package unit. options are good for sure, but money wise I'm only $2100 total into the heaters and less than a year old ac unit, and everything installed so far.

no I won't be heating with it. the only option for heat is electric and that would be to exspensive to run. I already have hanging propane heaters. thanks for the duct info. I was thinking aprox 8 registers or so. I also assume that the end of the duct should be capped off, not just a register...

that chart shows 20" round, i got my 18" from another chart online. ill upsize to 20". i do not know if it needs to stay 20" or taper down farther away after a few registers exit it or not? also i assume ill need to insulate the exterior portion of the duct. no idea what to use for that?

I have a 60x80x12 shop, split into 3 sections, 1 is 60x56 with 1-14x12 overhead door and 2 are 24x30 sections separated by slider door. front room has a 10x12 over head door. both doors are commercial insulated doors with good seals. does have a few 3x3 windows. its batted insulation in walls...

tempo SC ultra. it's a milky white concentrate u mix 8 ml with a gallon of water and spray it everywhere. I mix it in a plastic 2 gallon pump wand sprayer. my amish neighbor told me about it and it works. I spray it outside on my siding and patio and around all my doors n windows inside and...

sorry i had something else come up. but thanks all, just a update. they were 4.10/3.50-4 tires. I had 5 on the cart and 3 leaked. I pulled them off and apart and was able to find new tubes at my local farm store. $5 each so not a bad price. all seems well so far. I built the cart prob 4 years...

I built a body cart/jig. so in the need to move it I bought 5 of the harbor freight big rubber tire casters. 3 swivel and 2 fixed. i can roll it around now and move my project inside and outside perfectly. but the cheap caster tires leak. I picked up some slime, but having second thoughts...

S&K are great!!!

are there clear face shield covers that stick on and peel off? a tear off like a dirt track racer would wear on their helmets or some race cars have on their windshields? I have looked but admittedly not very hard. I like to wear the full shield but once its dirty its done for.