Recent content by Skeptic68W

He's half right. Rustoleum doesn't give you ratios to spray, presumably because they expect anyone spraying the product will buy spray cans, not shoot it from an HVLP gun. I took my initial ratio from folks on the web who claimed to have success with a 2:1 ratio. It does lay out well if you do...

Right. As pointed out in post 49, the issue ended up being too little mil thickness due to overthinning. The edges would get the worst of that, and the heavily pitted parts would need extra build, which they obviously didn't get, and that's why they're showing fast.

Had a couple exchanges with Rustoleum's tech support and we found the problem, it was a mistake on my part. When I began this project a few years ago, I think I was mixing it at a 2:1 ratio of primer/paint to acetone based on what I had seen others do online (Rustoleum doesn't provide official...

Compressed air and alcohol, which worked fine, there are no adhesion issues. I contacted them but haven't heard back yet.

When you spent hundreds of tedious hours on a process, doing specifically what you throught would be a good method for removing and preventing rust, only have it rust...and extremely quickly. No, this isn't the sort of thing you just shrug at without understanding why it happened.

It's worse in the area where parts mate for sure, since water traps there. However, at least on this part and a few others, there is failure occuring on the side where nothing touches, and it's vertical so no water is pooling. Not that it's even exposed directly to rain since it's covered, but...

That's a good point. Maybe that's the stop-gap solution here for the parts already done. Hit them with phosporic acid to stop what's there, and coat with epoxy then lanolin to prevent future spread.

Thank you for the information. That now makes 2 others with the same problems. Dang sure wish I would have seen people talking about this online a couple years ago before I started all this.

What do you mean when you say it "really *****"? Have you experienced failures like this? As you can see in the photo, the shock tower is pretty pitted, so it's a rough surface for sure.

I'm really not trying to be an ***, so apologies if it's coming off that way. I do appreciate your inputs, I'm just extremely frustrated and trying to get a handle on why my outcomes here are so different than what I see everywhere else online with these products. As I've been researching...

If sandblasted was "microscopically rusty", then it stands to reason the rusty primer would have been better.

Glad that's worked out for you. I went by the TDS which says recoat after 24hr, dry to the touch in 5hr.

My understanding is that "clean" means "new" metal primarily.

I read the TDS sheet before (and again today as a refresher) to make sure, but they explicitly state it's fine to use on bare metal. If there's some sort of special curing issue (I'm not doubting you), then I wish they would have said something about it. It shows the recoat time to be roughly...

At this point that would essentially mean starting over from scratch with 3 years worth of work, so...no. What's going to happen is the undercarriage is going to get coated with fluid film/woolwax/surface shield when it's time to go back into use, and it's going to be what it is...but damn am...