Recent content by Sonorous

I'm a bit late to this. Google says the device is 7.5 amps. Lets aSSume 16/2 cord. My quick reference shows 16/2 SJOOW at 0.320" (8.13mm) and 16/2 SOOW at 0.370 (9.4mm). 16/2 SJEOW is usually slightly thinner than SJOOW, while SEOOW is about the same as SOOW. I suspect the internal cable clamp...

I could be wrong, but Stahwille is probably $20-30 per bit, Hazet might be double that with Gedore somewhere in the middle. If they are cheaper than that I'd love to try some out! I think I've seen smaller Wiha or Wera bits individually (i.e. 1/4 or 5/16" without the holder) at reasonable prices.

Nice finds four.cycle. That second set looks great. I'm tempted to buy one myself! It's probably worth getting the tamper proof style for anything larger than that set anyways (if you need them at all) as they'll do both just fine.

All very good advice above (I have no experience with Kobalt and Craftsman). For what you're doing the Irwin's will do fine and are readily available. Just avoid to temptation to buy a "set" of off-brand or rebranded ****. Assuming you already have 10-12" channel locks, Knipex Cobra or similar...

Looks like a smaller blade to made radius cats easier. Blades are 2" instead of 4" on the Dremel tool. Gimmick IMO but of course I haven't tried it. The rotorazer thing spins at 3000 RPM which, due to the smaller blade, probably works out to a similar blade speed to the classic Makita trim...

I suspect some are tool hounds, but many would treat it like any other business. And just like any business, when that's how you spend your day it's probably the last thing you want to do when you get home.

Funny, the only triple square I have damaged is a Snap On. It didn't break, but it's a bit twisted. Yes, I used an impact on a non-impact tool. I have a Koken set and it's done most everything I've asked of it (no impact). If I was starting over I'd probably get one stubby set and one long...

+1. Case in point: using a 19/32 socket to remove that newfangled 15mm oil drain plug on the 99 Blazer (19/32 is 15.08mm, making it one of the 'better' crossovers/matches).

Speaking of FILs, when my ex and I separated, I had to spend about half and hour and a few cold ones to convince him to take back some of his father's old tools and ancient tool box that had been in my possession for many years to keep them "in the family" (thankfully we hadn't yet started a...

Looks good! Were you inspired by Trust-Cook's new hammer? Assuming both tips are the same hardness right now, I might be tempted to make one side flush with the O/D and taper down a bit towards the face. Then it might fit in some places that the bigger side won't and would give you better...

+1 Or changed suppliers. Or the same manufacturer changed some things. These days the same pair of Levi's from two different stores don't even look or fit the same! Just be happy you didn't try to save on your ceramic tile or hardwood purchase by going to several retailers with stock from...

An angle grinder works great but takes some skill to do well. I have an ancient Makita cordless tile saw that is much slower but also hard to screw up with (newer version pictured). There are also corded hand tile saws that are great and I've seen some new fangled mini-multi saws that purport to...

Not sure I follow - what ain't welder plugs? All my welders have 6-50 plugs. I recently replaced the cord and plug on my Miller 210 because the cord came loose from the crappy molded strain relief on the plug from Miller. This is what I'm referring to - the same style I used on my welder for...

+1. There's nothing really special about 240v. Swap the receptacle and put one leg to neutral and it's a normal plug (assuming it's a home run, etc., etc.).

For starters, make sure to find out if your code/inspector has any specific requirements. For your 12/2, if permitted I'd use receptacles that accept 15a and 20a plugs, as pictured: If your 30a circuit is 240 only, why not use 6-30? Usually the replacement "welder" plugs can be configured...