Recent content by Spider Curry

Nevertheless, this slab was done properly. I watched, and I'm no novice to this.

We can get into all that after you tell me what "laws of physics" that you think I'm saying Florida "defies".

You might think so, but thats not how it works here in Florida. My most recent slab here was done by a very careful contractor, probably one of the best you'd ever find. I watched the entire job since it was next to my house, everything was done perfectly. Yet I have a couple of rust spots. Most...

You're welcome. If you're in St. Pete proper I hope you have a fence and/or hedges around your yard before you start on this, because what the code enforcement people can't find on their own, your neighbors will make sure they find it. One advantage to fiber mesh is you won't get the rust...

What do you mean by "floor insulation"? If you're in St. Pete I would say a monolith pour with a thickened edge. And yes, do a 6mil vapor barrier under the whole thing. Use a poured footer about 16 inches wide and 8 inches deep, with two runs of #5 rod through the entire perimeter, and a #5...

I appreciate the advice. Right now I'm hoping I can get the benefit of others' experience with LED lighting and see what the best approach would be, and skip having to glean through 26,000 different bulbs.

I've gotten my garage to the point that I'm putting task lighting in underneath my cabinets/over my bench area. I have some excellent halogen bars leftover from years ago when I had them on top of my bookshelf cabinets for indirect lighting. They use G8 25 watt /120v bulbs. I can still find G8...

As it turned out, the 1/4 by 1.75 hex head Tapcons were the way to go. So far I've mounted 6 cabinets on the wall using the IKEA Besta hangers, which allowed the Tapcons without much trouble. The heads were just slightly too large to get into the brackets but careful use of a big screwdriver got...

My desire to get something done got me over my hesitancy on this job. I bought a 75 ct box of 3/16 x 1 3/4 hex Tapcons, and a cheapie Craftsman 7A hammer drill. The hex head driver bit conflicts with the reinforcing ribs on the bracket, but I just used my impact gun to tighten the bolts up to...

ASTM C90 specification for concrete block (not cinder block) has a minimum thickness of the face web of 1.25 inches, and the inner web should be .75 inches or greater. All concrete block sold for new construction in the USA since at least 2007 has to meet this standard...

Those nail drive RedHeads were the ones I mentioned above. While they look like they'd work I think they'd be very difficult to remove if I needed to move the bracket. (Difficult to remove doesn't necessarily translate to "its mounted securely" ;-) Also, there is no way to apply any torque to...

It looks like I'm back on Tapcons. The ASTM90 standard for concrete block means the face web is 1.25 inches. So any Tapcon past the sum of the face web depth plus the mounted material (in this case, the bracket) is wasted. That means a Tapcon longer than 1.75 inches is overkill. Am I right?

If its anything like using them for home construction, chemical anchor bolts add way too many steps, I think. We used RedHeads for putting up steel frame buildings. It required pre drilling, inserting a capsule with a chemical binary adhesive, tamping the bolt into the hole to break the capsule...

Yep thats what I was thinking.

You're right it wouldn't affect it much. I was more concerned with adding full 2x4 between the wall and the cabinets to act as hanger spacers. Initially I was going to use those to stand the cabinets off the wall enough to where I could put an entire sheet of plywood behind them and cover up the...